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Minor things to save $ on repairs

This is a discussion on Minor things to save $ on repairs within the ACE How-To's and Guides forums, part of the Polaris ACE Forums category; I work at a Polaris dealership in Oklahoma and every week I do tons of repairs on atvs rngrs and rzrs, both carb and fuel ...

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    ROD
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    Minor things to save $ on repairs

    I work at a Polaris dealership in Oklahoma and every week I do tons of repairs on atvs rngrs and rzrs, both carb and fuel infected. It cost 89$ an hour labor so Ill give you guys the low down on what simple things I do almost ever day that cost folks 200 to 300$ a pop for me to fix,and how to keep it out of the shop longer and save your self some cash.

    1. The most common problem I get ever week is the simplest to fix. Bad gas. Believe it or not it can ruin every thing. On carb motors the gas tank has to be drained the fuel switch removed cleaned the lines cleaned and the carb removed cleaned and some times rebuilt. all from bad gas. Fuel injection is worse most of the time it clogs the in tank filter and ruins the fuel pump itself. At my store we rebuild the fuel pump although Polaris will make you replace the whole thing which is 500$ vs us rebuilding it for half that. To remedy all these problems it is simple DO NOT leave fuel in the tank over 1 month with out using fuel stablizer or draining the whole fuel system. If you go the stablizer route use what it says per amount you have in tank and when you get ready to run the machine again be sure to add fresh fuel, seafoam or chemtool or something to refresh the gas in the tank. Gas starts going bad after about 3weeks the longer it sits it starts turning to a gummy varnish substance which will clog up a fuel pump filter or on carb machines gum up all the jets and fuel valve. Btw on carb machines there is a drain screw on the bowl of your carb shut your fuel valve off and drain the carb also or bad gas just sits there over time mucking things up.

    2. Fouled plugs. Most folks do not know or are in a hurry with their atv fouling can occur as often as a few times a week. Making your unit run like crap. To solve this on fuel injected models turn the key wait till you hear the buzzing stop on your fuel pump then start it and let it run for a min or so before using it. What happens is since it has no manual choke, it dumps tons of fuel into the cylinder like a choke would to start it. Most folks start and take off not letting the auto choke time to reduce the fuel being pumped into the cylinder causing the excess gas to be pumped into the crank case, in the oil, causing the oil to thin and over fill which then gets in the cylinder while its running causing fouling to the plug. At that time the unit will chug around and you will have to have an oil change and a new plug both not just one or the other. Not to mention gas in the oil will start to deteriorate seals and gaskets in the motor. Carb motors the same way except the choke is driver controlled and should be warmed up and not be driven with the choke out.

    3. Belt replacement, most of the belts I replace every week are glassed or burnt from the driver running the machine in High gear everytime they ride it. 25 or below should be low gear only and 25 and above high gear. I know its a pain to stop to put in high all the time but in the long run it will save you money on belts and running low speeds in high also will cause grooves on the inside of your clutch walls costing you big money to have replaced.

    Well I hope you all find this info helpful and I am looking forward to seeing more posts on like subjects, and yes just those 3 problems alone keep me busy day after day so they are very very common problems with simple ways to prevent them.
    Last edited by Scoundrel; 03-01-2014 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Making sticky
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    excello's Avatar
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    Good advice!

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    Using Tapatalk

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    Forgot one thing that usually is a plague in the fall which is the radiator. Clogged radiators can cause overheating and an abundance of problems from there. To help prevent a clogged radiator cut a piece of window screen and use rubber cement or clear silicone to fasten it over your grille, paint it black before hand if you do not wish it to stand out. it will catch all the cotton wood, and stuff floating in the air in it before it can reach the radiator when it gets clogged remove disguard and apply another piece, it is way cheaper than a radiator flush or replacement, and can also assist in preventing a puncture and help the grille stay nice.

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    Rod, thank you. Great info..number 3, I didn't know. And a great kick in the pants for number 1 and 2.... thank you
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    np duane any time

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    Great post. But just a quick question...I ride tight hilly trails and hardly go over 25 mph. So should I just keep it in low gear for most of my riding with the ace? And should I have done this for my other atvs???? If so...whoops...

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    Quote Originally Posted by AceBurgh5 View Post
    Great post. But just a quick question...I ride tight hilly trails and hardly go over 25 mph. So should I just keep it in low gear for most of my riding with the ace? And should I have done this for my other atvs???? If so...whoops...
    I'm going to chime in here. This very topic has been discussed many times, many ways on other forums I've been on, and the bottom line is that there is no single right/wrong which covers every situation.
    Different vehicle types and weights, different riding styles, different terrain, different clutches will all affect this.
    You have to understand what screws up belts, and make your own choice based on each situation you encounter.
    It's just another driving decision you make, like when to turn the wheel and which rocks will fit under your rig and which ones you go around.

    But you can't write a complicated set of "in this case do this and in that case do that" in a user manual. For one thing, users won't bother to read it if it's long. For another, it might confuse people.
    So manufacturers use 20-25mph as a guideline.

    So now I'll tell you what I do. And I have never burned out a belt.
    I've only been riding since 2005, but I rode more in that time than a lot of guys have ever ridden.
    I have put many thousands of miles on CVT transmission quads, and had many different models.

    I'll summarize this by saying "don't make the clutch work hard". It's as simple as that.

    If I am cruising on a fairly level trail, I'm usually in high gear, even if I'm going 10-15mph, because the clutch is not working hard. I'm just tooling along, foot/thumb barely on the gas.
    If the trail starts going uphill, but not really steep, I stay in high gear until I start to feel the machine really start working hard. Then I'll stop, shift to L, and proceed.
    If I'm looking at a fairly short hill climb and there's a good run-up, I'll keep it in H.
    If I am at the base of a long steep hill climb, I'll stop and put it in L, and then proceed.
    If I'm looking at entering a liquid mud puddle, I'll keep it in H (with AWD on before I enter it).
    If I'm looking at entering a thick gooey mud pit, I'll put it in L with AWD on before I enter it.

    If I go through deep water and I can feel the belt slipping after I get out, I'll stop and drain the water out of the CVT area.
    All of my rigs have had CVT drain plugs - even the ones that didn't come stock with one. But these days I try to just stay out of the water for the most part.

    It's all about how hard you make that clutch work, and for how long.
    Last edited by Scoundrel; 10-08-2014 at 05:48 PM.
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    Thanks scoundrel. I ride pretty similar to you it sounds like. I will just keep on keepin on when I get the ace

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    Forgot one thing: No drag racing.
    One thing that is really bad for belts is sudden 100% throttle. Especially when the belt is cold.
    If you unload your rig and then stomp the gas and sprint down the service road at full speed, you're asking for a broken belt. Same goes after a lunch break, in 40 degree weather.
    Idahopilgrim and Deecee like this.
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    Keep the rubber side down!
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    Yeah sorry was not trying to tell any one how to handle their ride just was letting every one know the common problems and probable causes of things I have to work on mostly at the job. I just hate to see folks wasting good upgrade money on mostly preventative common problems I encounter daily. That and I could not stand seeing this part of the forum blank. I am sure lots of folks have some tips to share.
    Idahopilgrim and Deecee like this.

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