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My fix for the cargo bed/muffler heat issue.

14K views 35 replies 11 participants last post by  LavFarmer 
#1 · (Edited)
My fix for cargo bed/muffler heat issue.

The ONLY reason I cut vents, is bed inspection revealed mild melting about 3" diameter around the mounts where muffler hangers slip into.
I HAVE NOT YET INSTALLED OR USED POLARIS LOCK & RIDE REAR CARGO BOX! Slight melting has occurred with cargo bed completely empty! NOT ALL WILL EXPERIENCE THIS!
PLEASE READ:
For those installing Polaris Lock & Ride Rear Cargo Box that will cover bed holes, FIRST try placing 3/8" thick spacer between cargo bed & storage box but DO NOT cover bed holes to allow heat to escape!
For those with melting WITHOUT Polaris Lock & Ride Rear Cargo Box and bed completely EMPTY, fix is up to you whether it's to install air ducts, fans or cut vents etc!

I chose to cut vents as slight melting has already occurred without storage box installed. Following molded edges around center of cargo bed, I marked cutout lines 3/8" from all edges & radiused the corners.
Depending on heat felt from vent, may cut an additional vent on each side of center vent. Red circles show location of melt spots on backside of plastic.
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First drilled 1 1/8" test holes. I'm sure holes drilled across top of bed, within the width of bed section that steps down should be more than enough to vent the hot air.
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Vent cut to final size. You can see how close the muffler hangers are to the plastic...approx. 1/8" away in my case. I'm convinced with storage box installed, mine would have melted too!
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Muffler is mounted directly below bar so you can guess how hot it gets up inside that hump! Rear holes were also cut for flow through ventilation. Center vents will also be cut in between mounts from the outside plastic.
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Even at idle heat now has vents to escape from. In theory, the intense heat flowing up & out through vents should also pull any surrounding heat along with it.
Cool air coming in around tires should also be forced up through vents as well. Muffler should block most mud/water from splashing up through vents & into the bed.
1 1/8" hole saw used to cut rear holes, perfect size for rear panel section where drilled.
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#2 · (Edited)
Just few more vents to cut & cleanup the edges. Expanded steel mesh will be be riveted behind large vent to keep cargo from falling through or burning on muffler.
Also going to mount an LED work/backup light. Looking at the vents, I honestly don't believe any air ducts will ever be needed! Will update when done.
 
#3 ·
Fantastic!!

I like this, I think I will do the same thing.
My first purchase for my Ace was the polaris cargo box, then I started reading about the heat issues in the rear so I took it out.
In Texas we get some days at 110, not to mention the heat index lol

I figured I would add a spacer under the box as most have done to vent some but still was looking for an option to cowl the air from under the rear bed.

Your option looks like it would work very well.

I am also looking to add some HVAC aluminum ducting tape to plastic parts that are close to any heat sources from the seat back
 
#4 ·
Personally, I think a better solution or an addition to this would be a small fan under there somewhere. You could even put the fan inside the cab and run a duct through the firewall. You could even make it reversible to use the heat in the winter months. During the summer the fan would also help to remove the heat from the cab that comes through from the radiator.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Yeah thought of that too. I also build custom PC's so no shortage of powerful 12volt fans. My rad is out back though, can maybe use heat coming off muffler with fans & ducting. I can tell you from standing behind the ACE when fan kicks in, it moves air like a freaking jet engine! If one were to install ducts through firewall & maybe a fan override switch, you'd be toasty warm...even without full doors! You'd never know just how powerful fan is until you relocate it into open air.

That's a darn great idea though, just may have to slap rad back in front for winter. Yeah I can understand some may not like the idea of cutting into their ACE.
 
#7 ·
Ducts from rad/fan & into cab should be easy as fan puts out some serious airflow! Ducts from muffler all way into cab may be tricky due to space limitations.
I'm not so worried about cool air, but having free heat from muffler/rad in winter sounds real nice...only reason I barely ride after the snow hits!
The small heaters available usually cost an arm & leg!
 
#8 · (Edited)
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A similar issue about heat, I ride with my seat all the way back and I took it out today for cleaning. It appears where the seat touches the rear panel the heat is causing the panel to melt against my seat. Will examine it closer tomorrow since it got dark on me tonight.

A little closer look it may appear there had been a sticker on one of the two but if there was I didn't remove it.
 
#14 ·
View attachment 17786 View attachment 17794 A similar issue about heat, I ride with my seat all the way back and I took it out today for cleaning. It appears where the seat touches the rear panel the heat is causing the panel to melt against my seat. Will examine it closer tomorrow since it got dark on me tonight.

A little closer look it may appear there had been a sticker on one of the two but if there was I didn't remove it.
Upon further inspection during daylight it appears my issue is friction related. I think I will go with the rubber mat in the bed, without covering the holes. Tractor supply sells three different thicknesses by the foot
 
#9 ·
Im for sure putting that HVAC tape on everything close to a heat source on mine for this very reason alone.
And a fire extinguisher has moved up on my list lol
 
#10 ·
Wow, that looks bad. Is there heat shield on backside of rear panel? Fixed mine after noticed heat shield lifting at corner. Used the HVAC aluminum tape mentioned to tape edges down, then covered entire heat shield with the tape. No signs of melting or damage as of yet.
I'm also going to stick fiberglass cloth to plastic with spray adhesive then fully cover with the HVAC tape for added protection. Rear panel heat shield looks to be fiberglass/aluminum blend.

Never checked temps inside hump, but idled ACE until fan kicked in at 96°C(204°F) & can sure feel muffler heat coming through vent holes! At speed heat should escape through vents much faster!
 
#12 ·
Yeah those cage mounts look pretty expensive everywhere I have looked so far, but worth it looks like lol

I wonder how much weight my Ace will have put on when I get it where it needs to be haha

I'm glad to hear I am not the only one with the HVAC tape idea, I was wondering if it would work.

I am glad that i ended up with a case of it :)
 
#13 ·
All of you have taken a simple problem and overthought it to death. All that has to be done to keep the cargo box from melting is a 3/8 piece of rubber under the box but not blocking the holes. By spacing the box up slightly and still allowing the heat to escape through the cargo area holes the heat never gets hot enough to melt the box....at least it hasn't melted mine in the last year and a half. I personally used a tractor trailer mud flap cut to the the size of the bottom of the cargo box but leaving the holes open. The box still fits nicely and the lock and ride plungers still work without modification. Go any thicker than 3/8 inch and you will have to move the L and R plunger mounts
 
#15 ·
True, just throwing ideas that may never see daylight. Hahaha. I honestly don't believe the problem is caused only by covering the holes. That may increase risk of melting but doesn't lessen risk of muffler hangers only 1/8" away from the plastic. I won't buy box if it doesn't fit as perfectly because it's raised. Hauling anything else requires keeping eye nothing covers holes. I have no qualms of cutting the ACE if it stops any chance of heat & still allows accessories to fit exactly as they should.

For me leaving the ACE in it's stock form is just another ATV. If that was the case I'd have bought a RZR instead! Thanks, but rather cut vents & never worry about it regardless of what's in the cargo bed!
 
#20 · (Edited)
Quote :Maximus desimus:I honestly don't believe the problem is caused only by covering the holes.

That's exactly the reason for the excess heat in the cargo area. Polaris did a very stupid thing when they made the cargo box that covered those holes. When left open the box never gets overly hot and absolutely no melting occurs anywhere on the box or the cargo area. But that's OK guys....don't believe me and keep on trying to make some kind of complicated FIX that will only make you cut into your Aces which may or may not eliminate the problem. I have carried coolers and aerosol cans in the cargo box without any heat problem at all, and will never change the simple fix I made that works and costs virtually nothing. The slight air gap around the box is all that's needed

One other thing Max....by raising the box 1/4 to 3/8 inch the box still fits in its designed location and the lock and ride plungers still function the way they were designed......no modification needed and the box is still secured as well as without the rubber pad underneath. I've ridden mine all over HM and the east Tennessee trails and the box has never come loose
 
#16 ·
Im with you Maxximus, I like they way you did it too.

I never liked the band aid on a broken leg approach, would rather have something I can trust to not fail.
If that takes putting shielding over all the rear plastics and venting the bed then thats what I will do.

One Ace driver that races and is disabled has a fire suppression "system" installed in hers.
That would be cool to have but not cost effective im sure.

Im wondering as some have mentioned that they think the spark cover keeps the muffler from from moving enough air, if an aftermarket more open air design would help the problem.

I appreciate when folks think out of the box :)
 
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#19 ·
Quote: Billy Blaze:I never liked the band aid on a broken leg approach,

Band aids don't last 18 months and 1000 miles, but you geniuses go ahead and cut up your aces to improve on a SIMPLE method that has already been proven. You just cant fix stupid
 
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#17 ·
I have had the factory rear storage box in my 570 since new and have not had any melting plastic or excessive heat issues. My lunch even stays cool inside the storage box when it is in a cooler bag. I wonder if some of the aces out there have different fuel mapping in the ecu that is causing them to run too lean and hot. I have added adhesive aluminum sheeting to the back of the cover between the seat and the motor but have not modified the cargo box in any way.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Yeah, melting issue is still very rare as very few have experienced it with/without storage box. Aftermarket mufflers let engine breathe easier & run slightly cooler, but usually require expensive EFI Tuner/Autotune for the change.
Not sure about fuel mixture but just before delivery, my ACE had to be reflashed for under 2000ft. sea level...if that has anything to do with it? Runs absolutely beautiful though!
 
#22 ·
Polarbear...it just may be where you live keeping temps down on your Ace. I frequently ride in 90+ degree temps If you use the fix I used make sure you use material like used to make mudflaps for semis. The rubber has some fabric embedded in the rubber and it makes for a very hard piece of rubber. Too soft a compound rubber may cause a melting problem of the rubber itself, Soft compound rubber has a much lower melting point than hard rubber compounds. Good luck and great riding to you
 
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#23 ·
Thanks Vandal, I am sure it is a lot hotter in your riding areas than mine but I like your method to reduce the heat. Good luck and great riding to you as well!
 
#26 ·
Thanks Mungo, thankfully I'm usually always a very happy guy. I totally agree with Vandal's preferred method as I've taken a perfectly good machine with flawless plastics & chopped a bunch of holes in it...not an easy thing to do! I literally thought WTF did I just do after the first cut was made! In my case it was the only way. Got my eye on a new ACE + rear cargo box this winter. In that case I will go the spacer approach as it's highly unlikely to get another ACE with the same heat issue as mine....I hope!
 
#27 ·
Max....do you have any pics of the melting problem without the cargo box? Like I said earlier this is the first time I've heard of that problem
 
#29 ·
Heat spots visible on each side. Dark spots in center are very shallow indents melted slightly lower than surrounding plastic. Slight blistering around both spots. May not have gotten worse but really didn't want to take chance. Already had plastic off so figured WTH just as well make sure it's not going to get any worse, cut slightly larger than needed. A ton of heat escaping from vents now. Actually thought this was the same issue everyone else was having. Was it not until AFTER adding cargo box?
Finger Hand Nail Plastic
 
#31 ·
Heat spots visible on each side. Dark spots in center are very shallow indents melted slightly lower than surrounding plastic. Slight blistering around both spots. May not have gotten worse but really didn't want to take chance. Already had plastic off so figured WTH just as well make sure it's not going to get any worse, cut slightly larger than needed. A ton of heat escaping from vents now. Actually thought this was the same issue everyone else was having. Was it not until AFTER adding cargo box?
View attachment 17882
To answer your question I never had any heat problems at all when the bed was open, and still haven't experienced any melting even when running the cargo box but added the mud flap under the box after Stubby another member had a hole burn through his box. His Ace is a 325 and they may make more heat than the 570's since they are revving higher than the 570. The box when sitting in the original spot without the mud flap rubber had a lot of heat inside but since the rubber was installed the heat is nowhere near what it used to be. It was hot enough inside the box without the rubber underneath to melt the ice in a small cooler very quickly. Now I ride all day and still have ice left
 
#30 ·
I am going to get my FLIR thermal imaging camera and take some readings and capture some pics, maybe this will help us all know exactly how much heat is being put out by the muffler and leechng into the surrounding plastics.

I think this will help having some numbers and will show exactly where it is getting hot.
Maybe it will help someone :)
 
#32 · (Edited)
Yeah while I prefer to not cut any holes it did make a world of difference. Never installed the expanded mesh in vents yet, was in hurry to go riding. Before temps were well over 115°C(239°F) & that's just idling! Never got around to check after temps, but hate to think what they'd be if I was working it hard. The plastic is among the best though & can usually take a lot of severe abuse. I'm guessing working the ACE got exhaust super hot then maybe I idled too long immediately after during the hottest days? Never had an issue before & good now that it's much colder out.
 
#34 · (Edited)
I don’t know if it’s certain Aces or not but my friend bought his 570 new in 2015 and has never had a heat issue and he has the lock and ride cargo box. I bought a left over new 2015 570 last month and bought the lock and ride box. But to be on the safe side I installed a 1/4 rubber flap from Tractor supply under the box yesterday (cutting out for the holes). I figured I’d rather be safe than sorry.
 
#35 ·
Smart move Papa
 
#36 ·
I realize this is an old thread but...has anyone thought of heat wrapping the exhaust system? did this on my 330 because of excessive heat on right side, worked very well for me and I'm seriously considering doing this on my Ace.
 
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