2015 ACE 325 blown engine
This is a discussion on 2015 ACE 325 blown engine within the ACE Engine and Drivetrain forums, part of the Polaris ACE Garage category; Hello all,
First post so go easy. I was given a Polaris ACE 325 with a blown engine (piston in peices, scored bore, big end ...
2015 ACE 325 blown engine
First post so go easy. I was given a Polaris ACE 325 with a blown engine (piston in peices, scored bore, big end bearing and bent valve). I have priced the replacement parts and think spending $1200+ Aus dollars on repairs is not viable considering the ACE was given to me.
I have an EX250 (Ninja) engine and all the accessories to go with it (CDI, wiring, carbs etc) but I'm not sure about interfacing the ACE transaxle with the Kwaka engine. I would really like to turn the little ACE into an oversized gokart and I don't care for the 4WD system.
My question is: Can I turn this ACE into a rear wheel drive only? Any thoughts on the Kwaka/Polaris trans integration? Should I just part it out?
What is the rest of the Ace like?..... Most of the parts you need can be ordered online much cheaper even with freight from the states than the Polaris dealers down here will quote you.. The barrel can most likely be machined and a new bore liner pressed into if its worn or damaged past an oversize piston.. I honestly think by the time you remove the rear transmission and at minimum the front drive shaft then machine up/weld/fabricate a rear bearing carrier/centre transaxle for a sprocket and adapt the Ace's axle /cv joint ends to suit that carrier.. Then have to fit the ninja engine etc the original motor would be rebuilt and you would be riding a 4 wheel drive Ace about 5 weekends sooner....Just my thoughts
Last edited by Insanefreighttrain; 03-26-2019 at 01:22 AM.
Turning an Ace from an AWD into a 2WD should be pretty simplistic.
If you remove the parts,.. then there is no AWD.
Concentrate on getting the motor up and running.
Cuz it's useless otherwise.
Free Ace + $1,200 is still a great price.
Gonna be a lot of sweat equity.
I refer to my Ace as an Adult Go-Cart.
It's a beast!
Thanks for the replies guys. The rest of the ACE is in poor condition as it was a farm vehicle and not loved. Lots of rusted fixings, extra welded bits, surface rust on brake lines and plastics/both headlights missing. Everything was coated in a thick layer of mud and I had trouble getting the rectifier/regulator clean it had that much mud on it. The plus side is that the wheels and tyres are great.
The bore has a slight crack in it that I only noticed when I uploaded the photos. The crank needs replacing and that is the expensive bit. All the other parts from the states are reasonably priced.
One reason I was reluctance to rebuild the engine is that I don't know the vehicle history. I could rebuild it only to have it blow again. I can't explain why the engine has detonated but I believe the big end bearing might be the culprit. The starter motor is also missing as the original owner burnt it out trying to start a detonated engine. A new starter is expensive.
One advantage of the Kwaka engine is that a low km EX250 or EX300 engine cost about $300 from a breaker. If it blows, just buy another. I already have all the Kwaka bits. Just time and effort required.
If the ACE was in great condition, I think spending $1200 (plus the starter) would be a no brainer but in light of the vehicles poor condition, I don't want to throw good money after bad. I priced a bare long engine and it was $3000 plus freight from the states.
Not worth spending that kind of money.
Doesn't sound like the ace has been given much love in its past life might of come off a dairy farm given the the rust etc.. Anyway considering the Ace is in poor condition etc.. Have a look which side of the donor engine the output sprocket is on if its the same as the original drive belt on the ace you might be in luck for a transplant. Take the seat and the back engine panel off and tray/cargo bed off It might already be off to of pulled the engine down. Basically take what's left of the original engine out and all of the drive belt and drive sheeves and clutch.. Check the rotation of the engine output shaft vs the transmission input you could end up with the fastest reversing ace on the planet..Leave the Ace transmission in there if you can it will give you hi low and reverse Plus you will have the 5 or 6 gears in the bike motor and a manual clutch. The input shaft to the Ace transmission will need a sprocket hub machined up for it with a sprocket in the same pitch as the ninja engine out put sprocket.. Gear it about 1 to 1.25 to one roughly two or three more teeth than the engine sprocket. The ninja engine most likely wont make the torque of the 325 even though they are close in hp.29hp v 32hp So it will help. It wont be easy but at worst you might have to cut the Ace chassis and stretch/strengthen/reweld it a little bit to make it all fit behind the seat and in front of the transmission.. or lift the engine slightly higher and more above the transmission this may impact the tray cargo area but it might get the engine in without having to mess with the main chassis. Not impossible just take your time and think things through. I have done a few engine transplants on quads/utvs and have wondered what I might do if my 325 engine ever dies..Goodluck
Last edited by Insanefreighttrain; 03-26-2019 at 10:53 PM.
Thanks for the information Insanefreighttrain,
I have done some internet searching and found RZR engine retrofits which use the Polaris trans with the motorcycle transmission as well. All the engine area is clean but the tranmission is still installed. I haven't offered the Ninja engine up to the chassis yet as the Ninja engine is still being put back together after fitting a replacement crankshaft, barrels, pistons and head. The ninja spares are plentiful and cheap.
I had the same thought as you with the HI, LO and Reverse. I thought I would fit a hand operated clutch lever on a manual shifter in the original gear lever area of the ACE. Just select the range you want and then use the Kwaka shifter and clutch from that point on.
Thanks for the ratio information. I do have a lathe and milling machine in my shed so I can manufacture or modify parts as required.
What do you think about the cooling system? Should I do a rear mounted radiator or use the existing cooling system at the front?
I'm not concerned about cutting and welding the chassis considering the poor condition it is in. Essentially I'm just trying to make a large gokart by using the suspension, wheels, brakes and steering already on the ACE. I don't plan on doing any jumping with it and wouldn't mind if it was lowered slightly to make it more stable.
It will be running on fire trails mostly and they are usually fairly smooth.
One issue I will have to overcome is the EFI fuel pump high pressure and the ninja carbs. I was thinking of a small gravity fed tank just above the carbs with a float shutoff switch to control the fuel level in the header tank. The EFI pump could just keep it topped up when running and then have a shutoff solenoid when the engine is turned off to prevent the carbs from flooding when the fuel gravity feeds from the header tank. The other option might be a low pressure return valve that only allows about 5psi of fuel pressure before returning to the tank.
My Honda ST1100 uses a low pressure lift pump to supply fuel to the carbs as the tank is low in the frame. A similar concept might work.
If you have a lathe and a mill your laughing.. the gear shift wont take too much just a few linkages and bearing end joints maybe a couple of 90 degree bell cranks to change direction of the linkage around to the shifter on the bike gear box. Just use the bike clutch lever assembly on the shifter lever and run the cable neatly back to the clutch.. The Ace radiator is probably bigger than the bikes so I would use it plus its already there and if something goes wrong you wont get a hot coolant shower. Fuel is pretty easy just get a low volume 12 volt fuel pump they are about 25 to 100 dollars for 1.5 psi off Ebay just disconnect the EFI pump and take it out make up a plate steel that goes under the original pumps plastic holding nut ( it looks like a donut) on the fuel tank and run your lines through it with either rubber grommets or weld/braze short steel lines through that plate and attach rubber lines to them.. Bolt the fuel pump somewhere convenient outside the tank ..Goodluck
Your thinking is exactly along my lines. Partially stripped the ACE down last night with lots of plastics removed. Roll cage is coming off tonight so I can get the remaining plastics off and do a thorough inspection of the ACE. Had to spray lots of bolts with WD40 last night in preparation for tonight.
Drive train looks ok so far but lots of surface rust. Radiator was full of grass seeds and debris but I sort of expected that. I'll post some pictures when I get it pulled apart.
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