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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The Polaris RZR is known for needing more suspension maintenance than ATVs (not sure about other competing UTVs).
Estimates for when you'll have to replace stuff range between 900 miles for sand duners and mudders to a couple thousand miles for other riders.
I got 2600 miles out of my RZR before I started feeling that things were really loose, and sprung for a complete replacement, front and rear. I replaced:
* ball joints
* tie rod ends
* wheel bearings
* A-arm bushings
* shock bushings
I went with Super Daves bushings and aftermarket tie rod ends and ball joints. The total cost was about $1000 in parts and it feels MUCH better.


My ACE is now at 1135 miles.
On my Paiute ATV Trail trip a couple weeks ago I noticed a bit of clunking from the front end in rocky terrain, which is the same symptom that clued me in to the RZR suspension issues.
Today I jacked up the front end of the ACE and wiggled the wheels. The right front wheel moved about 1/4 inch.
The right front ball joint was noticeably wobbly, but cranking a bit on the castle nut seems to have tightened that up.
I am still getting a tiny bit of a clunk that feels like wheel bearings on both sides, and the right side seems to still be able to wiggle left/right a bit.
If I stick my finger on the tie rod end boot and wiggle the wheel, I think I can feel it moving a little.

Things are not worn enough yet for me to identify what needs replacing. I figure by 2500 miles, it might be time for me to start replacing things. I jacked up the back end and there was no noticeable wiggle in the wheel bearings or A-arms.
I'll probably wait for it to get good and loose and replace everything at once again.
I'm just hoping I can get it paid off first. :)


Anyone else starting to experience worn out suspension components in the ACE?
 

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Scoundrel, I think that I have about 500 miles on my Ace and I have seen no indication of suspension wear. Since I have spacers I am worried about the wheel bearings. I hope that since I don't ride as aggressively as you that my suspension will last longer than 2500 miles. It will take me more miles to accumulate the same amount of fun as you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
will your new curved a-arms come with new bushings and ball joints?
I wish.
The ball joints are attached to the steering knuckles, not the A-arms.
The product photo does not seem to include the bushings.
Also the HighLifter site has this to say:
Notes:
Be sure to check for worn ball joints, bearings, and bushings before installation and replace if needed.

Which brings up a good point. Maybe I'll wait until the bushings, etc. are nice and worn out before buying the arched A-arms.
More money all at once, but I'd only take things apart once and then it would be a REALLY sweet change.
 

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well when you do have to go down that road let me know. I would be more than willing to come help and to get measurements of parts so I can make my own bushings etc. At the rate I'm putting on miles it will be much longer before I need to tear things apart.
I wonder what it would take to go to a heim joint for tie rod ends, they are usually much stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sure thing.
Bit of a drive for taking measurements when you could get them from your machine though, isn't it? I'm 30 miles north of Seattle.
 

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Scoundrel, in another lifetime when I used to change ball joints on my old pickup I had what I called a "ball joint separator". Below is a photo.

View attachment 1675

My question to you is does removing a ball joint on an ATV require a special tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have one of those forks, and in my experience it narfs the boot, which isn't a problem if you are replacing, I guess.
Half the times I have needed to disconnect stuff, I was replacing the A-arm and not the joint so I cared about boot damage.
In those instances what worked best was a 5-lb sledgehammer and a 2x4.
Leave the castle nut on, put the 2x4 against the nut, and smack the 2x4 with the hammer.
Sometimes when the joint is really floppy I need someone to hold it while I smack it.

Once you get it disconnected from the A-arm, the real fun begins.
Sometimes you need special snap ring pliers to get the retaining clip out. I don't know if the ACE uses those, or the more annoying kind of snap ring that doesn't have holes.
if it's the kind of snap ring that doesn't have holes, then a small flat head screwdriver, needle nose plier, and think gloves to keep you from gouging your fingers are in order.

Once you get everything separated and retainers removed, it's still fun. For the RZR, I had to beat the ball joint out of the A-arm with considerable force using the sledgehammer.
Same went for putting the new one in there.

But in the ACE, the ball joint is in the aluminum steering knuckle, so it's going to be a completely different ball game. I don't know what to expect, and won't until I tear it apart or buy a service manual.

I think a service manual is in my not too distant future.
 

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Sure thing.
Bit of a drive for taking measurements when you could get them from your machine though, isn't it? I'm 30 miles north of Seattle.
Yeah but that means I would have too take mine apart plus it would give me a reason to hang out with my buddy in bothell. Heck I'm working in Renton today so I make up here often enough.

And you are right about those pickle forks...they can tear boots up pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hell, if you don't mind the drive, and you want to see if you can keep up with me on the trail :))), we should go to Evans Creek or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Evans Creek is at the base of Mt Rainier. Basically a few miles uphill from the town of Carbonado.
It requires a forest service day pass ($5) which you can buy at the Chevron station in Burnett on your way through.
It's a popular RZR/Jeep area. I've run it a couple times in my ACE and there are only a couple of spots that I didn't do because of wheel base issues. The rest is pretty fun.
Elevation is high so it stays cool and wet in summer, gets snow early/late.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where is that and I'm game.
On another note...do you know the dealers in the bothell/lynwood area?
I've been in the Lynnwood MotoPlex a few times. Typical large dealer, buyer beware, they'll skin you alive if you let them. Don't know anything about dealers on Bothell.
 

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I was looking at some things on the front of the ace today and it looks like the ball joints are held in with 2 torx bolts instead of pressed in or held with snap rings. should make for semi-easy replacement when the time comes.
 

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So I have noticed the squeaks and squawks of the Ace and hear it in every video that doesn't have crappy music overlaid, so its not just mine.
Today I was changing the oil for the first time (finally hit 20 hours) and decided to grease everything too. I don't know what they put in there stock but no wonder it sounds the way it does and wears out fast. I used the grease I use for everything else and WOW what a difference. As I was greasing the front I could hear it pushing the old crap out and it sounded gritty until new came out the ends. No more noise and I swear it rides better lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have seen other posts where people say they squish new grease into the zirks after every ride and they swear it rides better and the bushing last longer.
I hate grease guns. They're slimy, it's a PITA to change out the grease tubes, and I can never do it without making a huge mess.
But it's a necessary evil, I guess.
 
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