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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Discovered tailights were staying on even with ignition key removed. Removed fuse for lights and proceeded to boost start. Maybe something not recommend to do, but not having a charger as described in the manual or the time, I hooked up booster cables. After sometime the volt meter showed over 13 volts, dash lights came on but no turning of the starter. Put the light fuse back in an it started. When I turned key off tailights went off properly. Still don't understand why light fuse kept engine from starting or why I put it back in thinking it would, for that matter.
 

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Not sure, just throwing it out here. Could be a bad relay. But that does not explain it working second time around. I had always thought when a relay messed up it was toast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The voltage reading on the dashboard bounces between 12.9 and 15.2 when normally it's around 14.2. Maybe a bad relay and/or the battery probably isn't fully charged.
 

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A bad voltage regulator would cause the voltage to fluctuate, and the resulting power spikes and brownouts could do bad things to the onboard computer, causing it to do weird things like refuse to start and leave the lights on when they're not suppoed to be. With fluctuating voltage, it's a place to start. Kind of an expensive place to start, but there you are.

cmarkel, do you know where the VR is? It's in front of the rear left tire, sandwiched between the plastics and the frame. Square aluminum thing about 4"x4"x1" with big fins on it.
If yours is full of mud, and it dried that way, the mud would act as insulation, preventing the fins from cooling the VR. It would then cook itself to death.
I did this to mine a few weeks ago.
 

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I would sure look for easier (read that cheeper) items to repair/swap out/fix than a voltage regulator or even a computer first. I don't know about others, but an opened package from my dealer with electrical items cannot be returned. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate the comments, that's the best thing about this Forum. I will proceed cautiously and consult with my Dealer.
 

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I have read on the Rzr forum that some guys were having problems with the ignition switch getting wet/corroded or something and it causing the tail lights to stay on. I'm also fairly certain that the brake pedal safety switch is tied into the brake lights so by pulling that fuse it makes sense that it wouldn't start. I'm certainly not arguing that it could be the voltage regulator because those have been known to fail but that's a expensive place to start. I know some Rzr guys were having problems with the exhaust melting the tail light wiring and it would ground out and cause some problems with the ignition, lights, and the AWD. I'm not saying that's your problem either, but something else to check. I've also heard of the Rzr chassis relay going bad and causing similar issues. I know these things aren't rzr's but they're still made by Polaris with a lot of common parts so they may have similar issues. I'm sure your dealer will thoroughly check all these things but if it's something simple it might save you a trip to the dealer. I personally hate taking things to the dealer because they always keep it a month...
 
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