I PMed Ryan at RVS performance last night and asked him about QSC clutch kits for the Ace. He told me for the 570 ACE any sportsman 570 kit will work. I also asked him about the 330 Ace and he told me that they are trying to find someone with one that will let them use it while they develop a kit for the 330 ACE. So if anyone lives in Minnesota and has a 330 ACE that would be willing to let RVS use in their development of the clutch kit for the 330, they need to contact him at RVSPERFORMANCE.COM or go to the Polaris ATV Forum and PM him there, or call 651-500-0657. He goes by the name of Ridinagain. Who knows, you might get a free kit installed, or at least get a great deal on one
Clutch kit for the ACES
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I'm going to be ignorant here, so please bare with me. What is the benefit of a clutch kit? Less slippage under load?
MAjik....Ive never had one on a machine.....just kept seeing members here discussing wanting them. I guess someone will pipe up and tell us all how they benefit an atv. I have known Ryan for a few years and knew he would have the answer to the question so on behalf of all who want them I contacted him
Vandal, I really appreciate you stepping up and acquiring this information for the community as a whole, especially after learning that you're not necessarily in the market for one. That is going above and beyond. Thank you!
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When you increase the hp and torque of an engine the engine will out run the shifting of the transmission. As in the transmission will shift to late. This makes it so you can't realize the full potential of any mods you make to the engine. This is why you see videos of turbocharged aces and they don't seem to be much faster then stock ones. On the other side of the coin let's say you run paddle tires in the sand or 30" Zilla's in a thick mud hole. Now the transmission will shift to soon when you would rather have the engine reved out a little higher to stay in the power band. So by changing the weights in the primary clutch you can get the clutch to engage and start driving the machine forward at a lower or higher rpm. Higher weight equals sooner engagement (like feathering the clutch from a slow start). Less weight equals later harder engagement (think reving engine and dropping the clutch. Now that we are rolling we move on to the secondary clutch this is what shifts the transmission. By changing to a steeper ramp angle or helix angle the machine will up shift sooner this is what you want if you have done mods to your engine and its out driving your transmission. On the flip side shallow angles on the helix will slow down the shift and make the engine rev out higher keeping you in the power band of the engine use this if you have taller tires or are running sand paddles. Then there are dual angle helix's these are used to fine tune the way the engine shifts or back shifts. Different spring tensions on the secondary also affect shift performance but mainly affect transmission belt tension. Also by machining different angles on the primary shieve one can eek out a little more top end speed. Hope this helps.
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HUGE help spannermaster. Makes perfect sense now.
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109 Posts
No problem I have a Joyner 250 buggy you gotta tune the hell outta the clutch on that since it's so underpowered.
Clutching is part science and part art. A generic clutch kit is not a good idea unless the kit specifically states what it is designed to do. Clutching should be suited for your riding style, your mods, and even your altitude. If you get oversized tires, ride at high altitude, ride primarily fast, ride slow, are heavier than the average rider than clutching should be considered.
For example, I live at 6600 ft and ride up to 12,500 ft ASL when I camp. My ACE needs lighter primary weights so I can hit peak rpm that I'm not able to do right now due to the fact that a na (normally aspirated) engine loses 3% horsepower for every 1,000 foot elevation above sea level. I may also change the primary spring to a heaver initial and finishing psi value so belt engages at a higher rpm and maintains the higher rpm thru out my typical riding speeds. I can't afford to have an engine bog on a steep rocky hill at high elevations and these minor changes should help.
A good reference that does a decent job explaining CVT operation and tuning can be found here: https://www.startinglineproducts.com/technical/rzr-clutching.pdf
For example, I live at 6600 ft and ride up to 12,500 ft ASL when I camp. My ACE needs lighter primary weights so I can hit peak rpm that I'm not able to do right now due to the fact that a na (normally aspirated) engine loses 3% horsepower for every 1,000 foot elevation above sea level. I may also change the primary spring to a heaver initial and finishing psi value so belt engages at a higher rpm and maintains the higher rpm thru out my typical riding speeds. I can't afford to have an engine bog on a steep rocky hill at high elevations and these minor changes should help.
A good reference that does a decent job explaining CVT operation and tuning can be found here: https://www.startinglineproducts.com/technical/rzr-clutching.pdf
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Totally agree!! It takes some playing around with to get it just the way you like. My ideal kit would have an assortment of weights and springs and maybe even a couple different secondary helix's and secondary springs. This way I have options to tune to my preference and style.
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Any know of or have a link for a rebuild kit on amazon for the 325 ?
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