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Does anyone have a how to on removal of the front plastic... I know it doesn't need to be removed for a winch install, but with my big fat fingers it's hard to get at the power block and run the wires.
 

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I have removed the front hood twice. I don't know whether I did it the most efficient way or not. I removed the front part of the roll cage. It comes apart in the middle with two allen head bolts on each side. The front part of the roll cage is also secured to the frame with two allen head bolts on each side. I used a metric allen socket set to remove these bolts. I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the front part of the roll cage loose from the rear part of the roll cage. Then you lift the roll cage off the Ace. After that, there are lots of plastic rivets and some screws that secure the front plastic. You will start by removing the cover over the speedometer and then the white plastic cab.
 

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+1 Hayseed. There are a couple of push pins and a single plug that hold the speedo and its associated plastic to the hood. The roll bar is only 8 bolts and it pops right out (you can leave the rear in place). Once you have the speedo plastic and roll bar out, there are a TON of push pins and a few Torx screws that hold the hood in place. Don't loose the 2 little washers between the hood plastic and the black plastic on the at the rear most portion of the fenders. They were the only two washers I have seen between the plastics and would be easy to miss. You can pick the hood plastic up and spin it out of your way (leaving the key wiring and switches connected) so you can get to the fuse block for wiring. My winch had a breaker with lots of exposed heavy guage wiring and it took me a while to figure out the safest place to mount it. There is no way I could have installed my SuperWinch without taking the hood off. It simply would not have been possible. I can take a few pics if you guys want since I'm still waiting on switches, it is all still torn apart.
 

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+1 Hayseed. There are a couple of push pins and a single plug that hold the speedo and its associated plastic to the hood. The roll bar is only 8 bolts and it pops right out (you can leave the rear in place). Once you have the speedo plastic and roll bar out, there are a TON of push pins and a few Torx screws that hold the hood in place. Don't loose the 2 little washers between the hood plastic and the black plastic on the at the rear most portion of the fenders. They were the only two washers I have seen between the plastics and would be easy to miss. You can pick the hood plastic up and spin it out of your way (leaving the key wiring and switches connected) so you can get to the fuse block for wiring. My winch had a breaker with lots of exposed heavy guage wiring and it took me a while to figure out the safest place to mount it. There is no way I could have installed my SuperWinch without taking the hood off. It simply would not have been possible. I can take a few pics if you guys want since I'm still waiting on switches, it is all still torn apart.



Quote:There is no way I could have installed my SuperWinch without taking the hood off. It simply would not have been possible.

Is the Superwinch something special because I installed my winch without touching the hood with the exception of removing the access panel to reveal the power block. What do you mean you couldn't do it without removing the whole hood. This sounds kinda crazy to me. That part of the install took no more than five minutes, and I experienced no problems at all


Did you put the contactor down in that confined space and if so WHY? As I see it if you did put it in there you will have to do the hood removal anytime you might have a problem. I put mine in the storage box so I could get to it easy and can also run my battery tender to the positive and negative cables. Charges great from there and is always out of the elements
 

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Does anyone have a how to on removal of the front plastic... I know it doesn't need to be removed for a winch install, but with my big fat fingers it's hard to get at the power block and run the wires.
wraith, I'd suggest getting someone with smaller fingers to help you with that rather than go through all that removal stuff that really doesn't have to be done. Put the contactor in the storage box and run a few wires and you're done
 

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My issue wasn't the solenoid/contactor, it was the breaker that was the issue. You can see it in the pic strapped to the rear of the plastic divider between the steering support and plastic divider. I had to keep digging to find a place that would be protected and not interfere with my storage box.

I guess I could have done it if I wanted to give up the precious little storage this thing has but I wanted it out of sight. If I need to get too it , I think I can be down in there in less than 15 minutes. I won't have to remove my cage to lift up the hood up enough to work on it since my cage is not stock
 

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My issue wasn't the solenoid/contactor, it was the breaker that was the issue. You can see it in the pic strapped to the rear of the plastic divider between the steering support and plastic divider. I had to keep digging to find a place that would be protected and not interfere with my storage box.

I guess I could have done it if I wanted to give up the precious little storage this thing has but I wanted it out of sight. If I need to get too it , I think I can be down in there in less than 15 minutes. I won't have to remove my cage to lift up the hood up enough to work on it since my cage is not stock
I understand. I don't use a breaker on mine and one wasn't supplied in the winch kit I used. The wire for the winches is 6AWG and is extremely heavy and I'd say near impossible to heat up to a dangerous point considering we are using such a small battery and very small charge going to it. I put my contactor in the deep hole on the right front of the box. The wires from the power block only have to be about a foot to 18 inches to reach it from the block. I guess the other reason I don't worry about a breaker is because that main circuit is already fused and will blow if too much heat is generated. I wrote somewhere else that the winch wire is the same size as what bass boats use for their trolling motor circuit, and use 12 and 24 volts supplied by two deep cycle batteries that have between 250 to 300 amps and run constantly for hours on end and I never blew a breaker or fuse when I was fishing, so I figure this same wire is going to work without issue in a low amperage situation such as the winches for an atv
 
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