+1 Hayseed. There are a couple of push pins and a single plug that hold the speedo and its associated plastic to the hood. The roll bar is only 8 bolts and it pops right out (you can leave the rear in place). Once you have the speedo plastic and roll bar out, there are a TON of push pins and a few Torx screws that hold the hood in place. Don't loose the 2 little washers between the hood plastic and the black plastic on the at the rear most portion of the fenders. They were the only two washers I have seen between the plastics and would be easy to miss. You can pick the hood plastic up and spin it out of your way (leaving the key wiring and switches connected) so you can get to the fuse block for wiring. My winch had a breaker with lots of exposed heavy guage wiring and it took me a while to figure out the safest place to mount it. There is no way I could have installed my SuperWinch without taking the hood off. It simply would not have been possible. I can take a few pics if you guys want since I'm still waiting on switches, it is all still torn apart.
wraith, I'd suggest getting someone with smaller fingers to help you with that rather than go through all that removal stuff that really doesn't have to be done. Put the contactor in the storage box and run a few wires and you're doneDoes anyone have a how to on removal of the front plastic... I know it doesn't need to be removed for a winch install, but with my big fat fingers it's hard to get at the power block and run the wires.
I understand. I don't use a breaker on mine and one wasn't supplied in the winch kit I used. The wire for the winches is 6AWG and is extremely heavy and I'd say near impossible to heat up to a dangerous point considering we are using such a small battery and very small charge going to it. I put my contactor in the deep hole on the right front of the box. The wires from the power block only have to be about a foot to 18 inches to reach it from the block. I guess the other reason I don't worry about a breaker is because that main circuit is already fused and will blow if too much heat is generated. I wrote somewhere else that the winch wire is the same size as what bass boats use for their trolling motor circuit, and use 12 and 24 volts supplied by two deep cycle batteries that have between 250 to 300 amps and run constantly for hours on end and I never blew a breaker or fuse when I was fishing, so I figure this same wire is going to work without issue in a low amperage situation such as the winches for an atvMy issue wasn't the solenoid/contactor, it was the breaker that was the issue. You can see it in the pic strapped to the rear of the plastic divider between the steering support and plastic divider. I had to keep digging to find a place that would be protected and not interfere with my storage box.
I guess I could have done it if I wanted to give up the precious little storage this thing has but I wanted it out of sight. If I need to get too it , I think I can be down in there in less than 15 minutes. I won't have to remove my cage to lift up the hood up enough to work on it since my cage is not stock