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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had issues with hard starting to find out the intake valves had less clearance? One valve adjustment after 1000 miles. New intake valves a few hundred miles later and now several hundred miles after the new valves it's doing it again. This time the valve seats and valves will be resurfaced. Thanks!
 

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There are two things it could be one get new vavle springs and two put a little more valve lash in it like .002 more that sould fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking springs too, failed to mention that the valve face/edge was mushrooming away from the seat. This causes me to think inferior valve material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree and was almost hoping thatthis would be an issue that would be addressed in the future with better valves
 

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Well at 1150 miles I'm sitting in the same boat, although the problem started at about 1000 miles. Hard to start when cold, so I pulled the valve cover and found zero lash on the intake side.
So the parts ordering starts. Hot cams shim kit, Alba chain tensioner(might as well do it now), head gasket and new bolts. I decided might as well pull the head to make setting lash easier, inspect the valves and seats, and I might as well bust out the grinder and lighten the head buy grinding some material out of the ports to while its easy. Than decided since I'm gonna do that, and already got the PCV and autotuner, I might as well buy the clutch kit I've been talking myself out of for months. All this of course means I might as well cut the muffler open and do some changes to it.
I did resisted the urge to get new cams and up the compression but only because I'm starting to build a garage, so that was and easy decision. I've debated on pulling the flowbench outta storage to do some flow testing, but I'd have to buy a new bore sleeve which is more expense i dont need right now. But I dont really plan on doing much more than a little shaping anyway, although I would like to play around with some valvejobs, but oh well.
After the garage is up I may get another bare head and valves and starting playing around with it. But who knows, buy that time I'll probably be trying to sell the 570 and get the 900 even though I dont see any reason I'd need that kinda power other than for the pure fun of it occasionally.
And all of this thinking out loud is because my 570 is almost impossible to start when its cold now.
 

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Well I may be in the same boat here. I have over 4600 miles on my 325. About 200 miles ago mine started to not want to start when cold. I took it in to the dealership to have them hook it to the computer to rule out any sensor failures and they found nothing. I am bummed, as I was not ready to quit riding for the season, but I guess I will spend time over the winter tearing into it and fixing it. I am gonna do a leak down test first and roll from there. Pretty bummed after being pretty much problem free, aside from the common air box issue and my exhaust manifold pipe getting a hole in it, which I am pretty sure was caused by too much heat and thin metal material. I have always taking great care, no cold take offs, never beat the machine, and have always preformed all of the maintenance on it more frequently than what is recommended so it's very frustrating, considering my hubby has over 7000 miles on his 2013 Ranger 800 and has had no motor issues, just regular wear and tear on normal items with that kind of mileage. I realize it's a different motor but damn. I shall update you guys when I tear into it, may not be for awhile but I will re-post as I find out more.
 

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Atv Bandit, good luck on your repairs. Last winter mine was extremely hard to start when it was close to freezing. A new spark plug fixed the problem. I hope your problem is something simple like that.
 

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I put in a Lithium battery and it just starts on first spark. I never had issues before, but feel a difference regardless.
 

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Atv Bandit, good luck on your repairs. Last winter mine was extremely hard to start when it was close to freezing. A new spark plug fixed the problem. I hope your problem is something simple like that.
I am afraid mine is not that simple new iridium plug, new battery odessey battery this year, and constantly change air filters to keep that clean (even during rides), oil changes every 50 hrs, grease and once over before every ride, we checked all of the basic things fuel system, spark, I mean everything only thing left is a leak down test, which if the valves are bad will show a low reading, so that's next to do on the list. As long as I will probably end up with a low reading I will be digging deep to make sure no other problems are present. I honestly feel that these need more air flow, things are getting too warm and materials on them are breaking down. Maybe I am wrong but time will paint the picture. I still will always have and Ace though, it's just too comfy!
 

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Atv Bandit, please keep us posted on your diagnosis. Because of a post that you made on the air box warping from heat, I insulated my air box from the exhaust system. You are probably the leader in miles ridden on a 2014 Ace so you are hitting problems before others. I for one am learning for your experiences. Again, good luck on fixing this.
 

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Atv Bandit, please keep us posted on your diagnosis. Because of a post that you made on the air box warping from heat, I insulated my air box from the exhaust system. You are probably the leader in miles ridden on a 2014 Ace so you are hitting problems before others. I for one am learning for your experiences. Again, good luck on fixing this.
Thanks Hayseed! I will definitely keep you posted! I try to help where I see something that could be problematic for others as well. I am glad to know that I have helped! Having a background of being a service manager at a dealership and understanding the motors I see things and have a good idea of what could pose problems. I really appreciate everything here on the forum and all of the people being helpful to one another!!
 

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Just some information to those who will ever need to do any valve lash adjustments. Polaris uses the one piece bucket system on the 570 (not sure about the 330) which means there is not shim between the bucket and the valve. To adjust the lash you need to look at the part numbers inside the bucket to see which one you have (all 4 could be different), figure out how much you need to change your clearance and buy the appropriate bucket at $25 each and hope you get it right. OR........ there are some company's the will sell you different buckets and retainers for use with shims, and together with a shim kit, you can set your lash and have the ability to adjust again, and again if and as needed. Or take it do a dealer for ?$$$
After doing much homework and finding things out the hard way, I now have or am waiting to receive, springs and retainers, a shim kit, buckets, some camshafts (might as well just do it:shhh:), an aftermarket chain tensioner, and clutch kit.
Already have the Power Commander and Auto tuner, Uni filter. Also did while its apart, some light cleanup and reshaping on the heads and some internal modifications to the muffler. I dont know how these things make any power with a stock muffler. I hope to have all the parts and have it back together this weekend.
Maybe, just maybe, it'll run good enough to occasionally take my mind off wanting a 900 so bad. Yea, I know I could of done a big bore kit too but that will be fairly easy job later and I need to finish my garage and get my flow bench and head machine outta storage so I can get after the head alot more so it can feed a bigger motor.
And to think I got out of racing cars because it was getting so expensive and time consuming.:stupid:
 

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Curious, to the folks who have had valve issues with their ACES, how often have you hit the RPM REV limiter? I wonder if the valve train can't handle the RPM's at the current rev limiter setting?
 

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I know I have been on the rev limiter 3 times in mine. All three times I lost to my buddies Brute Force 750. :lol:
 

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It's really hard to beat the BF750 for raw, throbbing power. I had one of those things for a while. It's a rip-snorting beast. 750cc is a lot, and it's a twin so you get that power pretty much instantly.
 

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Well guys and gals my Ace is finally finished and I finally got to log 210 miles and 10 hours worth of riding on it last weekend for the first time this season. Sorry it took me so long to report back on my valve issue but between waiting on parts, parts not being shipped, working on the long rebuild process and owning my own business it's been crazy.

Well let's just say this was a huge PITA. So we ended up doing a complete top end rebuild, new clutch, and prop shaft replacement on my Ace. Let's start with the top end rebuild, well we tore it down and found the valves went out due to valve float, which is caused by excessive rpms. In case you are wondering I have only hit the rev limiter 3 short times since I got it new and normally drive between 30-35 mph on trails, but I have always complained that this little motor runs way too high of rpms. I think that the long and short of this deal is I need to consider moving up to the 570 for the speeds I drive since it runs lower rpms. However I am going to hang on to my 325 for now and maybe step it up next year.

Upon inspection of the head and valves we decided the best route was to replace the head and all valve components along with the piston and all gaskets and hone the cylinder as well. The crap part of the deal was in order to properly time the motor we had to pull the motor completely out because the cover for the timing chain was hitting the transmission when trying to remove it. So yes it was a major PITA pulling out the motor because it's a very tight fit in there, but we got it after a few choice words and some muscle work.

So we got the motor back together and we noticed that the primary clutch was also junk. I mean bad. It had completely self destructed, even one of the weights was broke. We cleaned it regularly so I am not quite sure what to make of that other than when I went to order a new one it was an updated part number......so maybe a bad line of clutches or something there who knows.

Then we noticed the prop shaft was shot, the back joint was completely locked up, that would be due to the lovely idea of not having grease zerks on the u-joints themselves just the shaft. That was a fairly easy fix though.

So after many hours of work, sweat, over $2000 in parts and a lot of choice words my Ace is back up and running, hence the reason I am gonna keep it at least this season before plunging on a 570 because I have a lot into it. I will add that it runs awesome once again and I am damn proud of our work!!
 

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Glad to read you are back up and running!
Thank you!!!! I am so happy to be riding again not that the Ranger and RZR we have are not run to play in but I just missed my Ace too much for too long and having an extended beautiful fall like we did last year and being cut short on riding probably another 1000 or so miles we so disappointing, because if I could make a career out of riding it I would. It's just tooooo much fun!!!
 

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Good to hear that you are up and running again. Enjoy many more miles out there:eagerness:!
 
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