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Well i completed my first oil change finally. I went with the Polaris filter and oil. I didn't want to take a chance on using something that might work but isn't covered if something bad happens. Call me risk adverse.

I took a number of pictures for other newbies. It's really not that bad, but there are a few things that'll make it easier.

1) As the OP mentioned, you'll need something to catch the oil from the filter, when you change that out. I used a high rimmed paper plate. The really cheap ones won't cut it. You need something that can hold maybe 1/4 to 1/2 cup of oil.

2) Get a 500 mL bottle (a small water bottle (DRY!)) will work well. I bought the 1 gallon jug of oil (had to do the wifes ETX too) and it made it a LOT easier to portion out the 1.75L of oil.

Here is a basic tool list too:
- 6mm hex socket or alan wrench. This is for the oil plug. I prefer the socket myself as it made it easier to torque.
- 8mm socket. This is for the oil filter cover bolts. Of course this was the one socket size I didn't have and I had to run to the store. Seems to happen every time I start a project. ;)
- Blue shop towels or shop rags. There will be oil spills. Maybe just drips, but you'll need them.
- Socket wrench
- Socket extention
- Uplight. I bought a cheap LED light at Harbor Freight. It was perfect for illuminating the bottom side of the engine so I could easily see the drain plug.


There are two places to fill the oil, the dipstick hole or the top of the engine. Both are pretty accessible in the Ace. (The wifes ETX I had to use the dipstick hole.) It's not necessary to take the seat out, but I wanted to understand how that opened up anyway, so I went that route. Plus it let in more light to see what i was doing.
View attachment 3589

After warming up the engine keep in mind the exhaust pipe is right near where you are working and WILL be hot.
View attachment 3590

The oil drain plug is pretty easy to find. It'll be right under the crank case. Do not confuse this with the transmission drain plug further back closer to the wheels.
View attachment 3591
View attachment 3592

Once the oil has drained for a bit (I didn't check the time, but I'd guess at least 5 minutes), I removed the oil filter.

The bolts for the oil filter are 8mm and come off with just a little effort. This is the time to put the paper plate under the engine, lined up with the filter hole. Thankfully the Ace has the room. I removed one bolt, then held the filter cover with one hand while removing the second bolt. The cover is spring loaded so holding the cover helps keep the parts under your control and you are throwing oily parts around.
View attachment 3594
View attachment 3595

The new filter (from Polaris) will have a new rubber o-ring for the filter cover. I recommend using it. The old one on mine was already looking flat. Since you have it use it.
Use caution when removing the old o-ring. Use something plastic, or if you are very brave you can use the tip of a utility knife and once the ring is out a bit cut it. That's kinda dangerous though as you can scratch the aluminum pretty easily.

As the instructions indicate, lightly lube the new o-ring before installing. I installed over the two 'ports' and rolled over the lip above them. There are some sharp edges around the ports and it's not worth risking damaging the o-ring. I also lightly oiled the rubber ring around the oil filter before inserting it onto the filter cover. In case it isn't obvious, the end with the hole attaches to the cover. The metal end goes in towards the spring. You saw the spring in the filter hole didn't you? If it came out, put it back. You need that.
View attachment 3596

Put the filter back in. Aside from the two tabs where the bolts go, there is a tab without a hole. It'll point upwards when you install the cover. There really is only one way to reinstall the cover. I held the cover (spring loaded, remember) with one hand and hand thread both bolts, then tightened with the socket wrench. I'm a rebel and didn't use a torque wrench, but use caution here. You are tightening steel bolts into aluminum threads. Aluminum is MUCH softer than steel and if you tighten too much it will strip the threads right out. Unless you want to learn how to tap new threads in your engine, don't over tighten. Remember how tight it was when you took the bolts off. ( I take no responsibility if you strip your threads, you've been warned.)

I reused my oil plug washer, but I probably won't a second time. It's made of softer copper for a reason. Again, use caution when tightening. This will take a bit more torque than the oil filter bolts, but it doesn't take much. Leave the really long socket wrench in the tool box.
View attachment 3593

Then just refill the oil. Again, you can use the top of the engine or dip stick hole to fill from. I used a 500mL bottle of oil at a time. Three full bottles and a small portion of a 4th was perfect. (1.75 L remember) I then fired it up, let it warm up and checked the oil level. Looking great.

Of course I was cleaning as I went. During the fill up there were little drips of fresh oil. Clean up after yourself. You don't want that stuff to collect dirt and grime.

I was surprised how dark my oil was, but then I was also surprised how dark the fresh oil was to start with. Must be all kinds of tasty additives in that Polaris oil. Not sure what those little pale bits where. This is what came from the oil filter area.
View attachment 3597


I went pretty basic on this as I know from experience that people new to mechanical work are looking to forums like this for help. I hope this is helpful. If anyone has any corrections or suggestions, please make them. I won't be offended. I did this to help others, not confuse or mislead them.
 

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Well i completed my first oil change finally. I went with the Polaris filter and oil. I didn't want to take a chance on using something that might work but isn't covered if something bad happens. Call me risk adverse.

I took a number of pictures for other newbies. It's really not that bad, but there are a few things that'll make it easier.

1) As the OP mentioned, you'll need something to catch the oil from the filter, when you change that out. I used a high rimmed paper plate. The really cheap ones won't cut it. You need something that can hold maybe 1/4 to 1/2 cup of oil.

2) Get a 500 mL bottle (a small water bottle (DRY!)) will work well. I bought the 1 gallon jug of oil (had to do the wifes ETX too) and it made it a LOT easier to portion out the 1.75L of oil.

Here is a basic tool list too:
- 6mm hex socket or alan wrench. This is for the oil plug. I prefer the socket myself as it made it easier to torque.
- 8mm socket. This is for the oil filter cover bolts. Of course this was the one socket size I didn't have and I had to run to the store. Seems to happen every time I start a project. ;)
- Blue shop towels or shop rags. There will be oil spills. Maybe just drips, but you'll need them.
- Socket wrench
- Socket extention
- Uplight. I bought a cheap LED light at Harbor Freight. It was perfect for illuminating the bottom side of the engine so I could easily see the drain plug.


There are two places to fill the oil, the dipstick hole or the top of the engine. Both are pretty accessible in the Ace. (The wifes ETX I had to use the dipstick hole.) It's not necessary to take the seat out, but I wanted to understand how that opened up anyway, so I went that route. Plus it let in more light to see what i was doing.
View attachment 3589

After warming up the engine keep in mind the exhaust pipe is right near where you are working and WILL be hot.
View attachment 3590

The oil drain plug is pretty easy to find. It'll be right under the crank case. Do not confuse this with the transmission drain plug further back closer to the wheels.
View attachment 3591
View attachment 3592

Once the oil has drained for a bit (I didn't check the time, but I'd guess at least 5 minutes), I removed the oil filter.

The bolts for the oil filter are 8mm and come off with just a little effort. This is the time to put the paper plate under the engine, lined up with the filter hole. Thankfully the Ace has the room. I removed one bolt, then held the filter cover with one hand while removing the second bolt. The cover is spring loaded so holding the cover helps keep the parts under your control and you are throwing oily parts around.
View attachment 3594
View attachment 3595

The new filter (from Polaris) will have a new rubber o-ring for the filter cover. I recommend using it. The old one on mine was already looking flat. Since you have it use it.
Use caution when removing the old o-ring. Use something plastic, or if you are very brave you can use the tip of a utility knife and once the ring is out a bit cut it. That's kinda dangerous though as you can scratch the aluminum pretty easily.

As the instructions indicate, lightly lube the new o-ring before installing. I installed over the two 'ports' and rolled over the lip above them. There are some sharp edges around the ports and it's not worth risking damaging the o-ring. I also lightly oiled the rubber ring around the oil filter before inserting it onto the filter cover. In case it isn't obvious, the end with the hole attaches to the cover. The metal end goes in towards the spring. You saw the spring in the filter hole didn't you? If it came out, put it back. You need that.
View attachment 3596

Put the filter back in. Aside from the two tabs where the bolts go, there is a tab without a hole. It'll point upwards when you install the cover. There really is only one way to reinstall the cover. I held the cover (spring loaded, remember) with one hand and hand thread both bolts, then tightened with the socket wrench. I'm a rebel and didn't use a torque wrench, but use caution here. You are tightening steel bolts into aluminum threads. Aluminum is MUCH softer than steel and if you tighten too much it will strip the threads right out. Unless you want to learn how to tap new threads in your engine, don't over tighten. Remember how tight it was when you took the bolts off. ( I take no responsibility if you strip your threads, you've been warned.)

I reused my oil plug washer, but I probably won't a second time. It's made of softer copper for a reason. Again, use caution when tightening. This will take a bit more torque than the oil filter bolts, but it doesn't take much. Leave the really long socket wrench in the tool box.
View attachment 3593

Then just refill the oil. Again, you can use the top of the engine or dip stick hole to fill from. I used a 500mL bottle of oil at a time. Three full bottles and a small portion of a 4th was perfect. (1.75 L remember) I then fired it up, let it warm up and checked the oil level. Looking great.

Of course I was cleaning as I went. During the fill up there were little drips of fresh oil. Clean up after yourself. You don't want that stuff to collect dirt and grime.

I was surprised how dark my oil was, but then I was also surprised how dark the fresh oil was to start with. Must be all kinds of tasty additives in that Polaris oil. Not sure what those little pale bits where. This is what came from the oil filter area.
View attachment 3597


I went pretty basic on this as I know from experience that people new to mechanical work are looking to forums like this for help. I hope this is helpful. If anyone has any corrections or suggestions, please make them. I won't be offended. I did this to help others, not confuse or mislead them.
Just did my first oil change. What can I say Great Job Well Done So east with the information that you gave
 

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I have an oil pump that I pump the oil out of my boat engines with. It has a tube that goes in the dipstick tube. I don't want to get oil in the bilge.
I may use this to get most of the oil out before draining. It will get rid of most of the oil so I will have less mess.
 

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Ace - "How To Do Guide" - Oil Change Sticky...

Oil expands (oil volume change increases) when heated!

Checking crankcase oil level cold as oppose to checking crankcase oil when very hot will give you two different readings!
For me, I always check the dipstick level cold (before starting) and then add "cold" oil to maintain the high level mark on the dipstick.

When doing an oil change they want you to very briefly circulate the new oil in the bearings and new filter then
check the "semi cold" oil for the proper oil level and leaks.

Please note: On the 325 ACE, the volume ounce difference between the low and high level marks on the dipstick is
approximately 4.5 oz. so be careful to not overfill when cold (semi-cold). Too much oil (level) will cause problems.

If you check the oil level when the oil is very hot (since the oil is expanded) it will fool you in thinking your level is OK
which is not the case!

The Polaris Sportsman ACE 325 operator's/user manual states the engine fluid capacity as 1.75 quart = 32 oz. + 24 oz. = 56 oz. or
1.65611 liters or 1656 milliliters.


Three full bottles and a small portion of a 4th was perfect
Your 3 x 500 milliliters = 1500 ml plus a small portion of a 4th should work out BUT through out your oil change description you confuse
liters with quarts! 1.75L does not equal 1.75 quarts! Remember, the 325 capacity is 1.75 quarts or 1.65611 liters.

1.75 L remember
it made it a LOT easier to portion out the 1.75L of oil
Otherwise, your pictures are awesome! :friendly_wink:

BTW ...

Easy Oil filling tip for the Polaris ACE 325 ...

Go down to Walmart and get the "FloTool Measu-Funnel" $4.37
This oil funnel has oz./ml markers, a prefilter and a on/off twist flow lock plus and end stopper.

Assuming you "allowed all the oil" the drain in the drain pan > 5 mins. all you need to do
is to put 1 quart (32 oz.) in the funnel and release the oil into the dipstick/level hole.
Then put 0.75 quart (24 oz.) in the funnel and release the oil into the dipstick hole.
The operators/user manual states the oil capacity of the Polaris ACE (325) is 1.75 quarts or 1.6561 Liters

If you were impatient and did not let "all" the oil to drain properly then put only 20 oz. (error on the low side) and then
check the oil level. Add more oil if need be. (your level will be off by approximately 4 oz.) Do not over fill!

Note: Do not intermix other fluids (gearbox / transmission) in this funnel unless you purge/clean this funnel with
the new liquid you are using.
 

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I just bought a pair of ACE570s, I haven't looked yet, but is the 570 any different?
Yes but still easy. The 570 has an external filter that is sometimes tricky too loosen, I use adjustable pliers.
 

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Do you ever ride that machine like its intended? It is showroom like condition Mine was dirtier than that after owning it for an hour
 
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