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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got an OEM Polaris REAR brushguard for a killer price, but it doesn't have any hardware.

How do you handle the TOP 2 mounting points (between the brake lights)?
Seems like a SPACER of some sort will be needed??

Searched all over for any close-up pics, details or installation info, but no luck...

thx
 

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There should be 2 long self tapping metric bolts for the top, and 4 hex head bolts with nuts and washers for the bottom. I'd contact whoever you bought it from and have them send them. If not, you can get them at the hardware store. I thru bolted my top bolts with 5/16" bolts and the factory spacer. Much more secure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thx that pic is what I needed.

The killer price was w/o the hardware, I figured it would be cheap and easy to assemble whatever hardware was needed.
I'll check my local ATV place and see if they have a hardware kit for it.....and how mucho$$$ it is.
 

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I now see I over complicated the way I attached my homemade rear brush guard… Ha ha

IMG_5267.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, just checked with dealer, there's no Polaris part # for the hardware kit....was worth a shot.
Off to the hardware store we'll go.

Hayseed...or anybody...have a length on that OEM spacer?
Guessing it's about 3cm (1 1/4") maybe??
 

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Ace Kat, you were very close. I could not get a tape measure to it but I measured it with a small stick and measured the stick at 1 1/8". If you need me to, I will pull the bolt and spacer tomorrow and measure them with accurately with a digital caliper. It is too cold outside to do it now. Hayseed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ace Kat, you were very close. I could not get a tape measure to it but I measured it with a small stick and measured the stick at 1 1/8". If you need me to, I will pull the bolt and spacer tomorrow and measure them with accurately with a digital caliper. It is too cold outside to do it now. Hayseed.
Thx! Don't think we'll need any more specific than that.
With that info and gmck's 5/16" bolt size we should be able to put something together.
Our local ACE (haha) hardware store is usually really well stocked with stuff, so we should be able to get some aluminum tubing (maybe even some scrap they might have around) or conduit.....TBC....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There should be 2 long self tapping metric bolts for the top, and 4 hex head bolts with nuts and washers for the bottom. I'd contact whoever you bought it from and have them send them. If not, you can get them at the hardware store. I thru bolted my top bolts with 5/16" bolts and the factory spacer. Much more secure.

Found a perfect 1 1/8" long x 5/16" spacer at Ace, so we're good with the spacer.
BUT....
We've been to Ace, Fastenal, private industiral suppliers, Home Depot and can't find anything 5/16" self tapping longer than 1 1/4".

I need at least 2" to have enough length to go through the bracket, then the 1 1/8" long spacer and then into the Ace.

What did you use for your 5/16" bolts you mentioned?
Did you use self tapping?

Or did you take the rear of the ACE apart so you could get a nut on your bolt or what?
 

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Found a perfect 1 1/8" long x 5/16" spacer at Ace, so we're good with the spacer.
BUT....
We've been to Ace, Fastenal, private industiral suppliers, Home Depot and can't find anything 5/16" self tapping longer than 1 1/4".

I need at least 2" to have enough length to go through the bracket, then the 1 1/8" long spacer and then into the Ace.

What did you use for your 5/16" bolts you mentioned?
Did you use self tapping?

Or did you take the rear of the ACE apart so you could get a nut on your bolt or what?
Guess I would just tap out the hole using a tap, then insert a regular bolt with a little of locktite or adhesive. I actually did it this way when attaching my homemade front bumper, worked fine so far!
 

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ace kat if you haven't found a bolt yet do you have a farm and fleet or tractor supply in az they carry longer stuff most of the time. if not you might be able to find one on line. I do grade 8 stuff whenever I replace bolts and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thx olds, missed your post until now. Def wish we'd stopped there....


Still nothing 5/16", and long enough that was self tapping.

Spent hours on the 'net :banghead:

Found these Polaris M8 self tapping bolts on ebay, at 40mm, JUST BARELY long enough, not sure enough full threads in metal to be strong enough and couldn't find any longer.... hmmm, maybe we could use 1" spacer instead of 1 1/8".
4 New Polaris 7518842 M8 x 1 25 x 40mm Hex Flange Bolt Olive Drab Free | eBay


Thought s.s. would be best since we hose them off, and thought they'd be strong enough since bottom 4 bolts really are doing the heavy lifting.
Finally found some s.s. 5/16"-9 flange hex head 2" long LAG bolts, which are essentially self tapping because they're pointy. Very course threads but gave them a try anyway.

First one went in perfect, nice and tight....second one....um, not so much... :banghead:
About half way, started just turning and turning.....

Since we apparently already cut the threads, I tried a s.s. M8 bolt cuz it's a tad bigger, tried to force it in...no luck.

Found some random 5/16" flange hex head 2 1/4" long LAG bolt, course thread, in my tool chest, ....WTH....give it a try!
It worked! :woot:
I don't care why it worked when the first one didn't, but it did!!

So great, I've got a s.s. on the left, and shiny black oxide on right. No markings, so I think it's a Grade 2.

Questions: :redface:
  • I'd like to try the Polaris M8 olive drab ones I got on ebay since they match the others.....What happens if I remove the 2 I got in and try these with different thread pitch (1.25)? Could I "recut" the threads at all? Maybe use loctite like Vinny said.

  • The Polaris are M8 x 1.25 x 40mm, and self tapping, with that little space for the cut filings to collect.
    I'm guessing I need to have that area PASS completely through the hole, correct?

  • If all these options fail, would the first ones ever catch again?
 

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I was able to get my hand in there and I felt the bolt. That leads me to believe that you can get a locknut in there to secure it. Just use a regular bolt now that it is threaded or over threaded.
 
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