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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was doing some speed runs down the street and noticed that sometimes the red "RPM" light goes out when I am at high speed hard on the throttle.
Then I noticed that at the same time, the backlight for the LCD area of the cluster goes out too.
I put it in Neutral in the driveway and revved the engine, and found that it happened at about 7500 RPM.
I also noticed that the "N" turns off at the same time.

Everything comes back on when the RPMs drop below 7500 again.
The speedo needle never drops during the outages, and the LCD readout never goes away.

I did some Google searching and found some stuff about the instrument cluster shutting itself off in an overvoltage situation to protect itself, but the context was a case where the cluster does not light up when the ignition key is turned on.
Might be the same deal here, I dunno.

Anyone seen this? Have ideas?
 

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I was doing some speed runs down the street and noticed that sometimes the red "RPM" light goes out when I am at high speed hard on the throttle.
Then I noticed that at the same time, the backlight for the LCD area of the cluster goes out too.
I put it in Neutral in the driveway and revved the engine, and found that it happened at about 7500 RPM.
I also noticed that the "N" turns off at the same time.

Everything comes back on when the RPMs drop below 7500 again.
The speedo needle never drops during the outages, and the LCD readout never goes away.

I did some Google searching and found some stuff about the instrument cluster shutting itself off in an overvoltage situation to protect itself, but the context was a case where the cluster does not light up when the ignition key is turned on.
Might be the same deal here, I dunno.

Anyone seen this? Have ideas?
If you are revving it to 7500 in neutral, your lucky the light was the only thing to go out. Had I done that a rod would have hit me in the back of the head
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know about the 570, but the 330 revs that high at about 40mph.
So if it goes that high under load, why shouldn't it be OK to go that high in neutral?
Don't these things have rev limiters on them to protect the engine anyway?
 

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I don't know about the 570, but the 330 revs that high at about 40mph.
So if it goes that high under load, why shouldn't it be OK to go that high in neutral?
Don't these things have rev limiters on them to protect the engine anyway?
You tell us.....did it have a rev limiter kick in when you were doing 7500 rpm in neutral???? I'm sure not going to try it with mine in neutral to see if I have one
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
These comments are not positive or helpful in regard to the question I asked.
It has been posted in another thread that the 330 revs higher than the 570, and that the rev limiter for the 330 kicks in at 8500.
So I'd appreciate it if you let me be the one to decide how high I can rev my engine without blowing it up.
 

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These comments are not positive or helpful in regard to the question I asked.
It has been posted in another thread that the 330 revs higher than the 570, and that the rev limiter for the 330 kicks in at 8500.
So I'd appreciate it if you let me be the one to decide how high I can rev my engine without blowing it up.
By all means....be my guest
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update:

It happens at 7000 RPM now. Today while cruising down the road at about 7000 RPM (about 38 MPH), the MPH light and the backlight went off, the LCD display flashed a message: "OV 17.9", and the check engine light came on for a few seconds.
I pulled back into the driveway, pushed the Mode button until the "Ck ENG" message came up, and held down the Mode button to get into the Diagnostics Code menu.
The numbers that came up were "0 168 3" - That's 0 in the Gear position, 168 in the Odometer position, and 3 in the Clock position.
The manual indicates that code to mean "System Power - Voltage Too High", which jives with some Google searches for those codes.
http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9924083r01_lo_res.pdf

The most common cause for this problem, while certainly not the only possible cause, is a bad voltage regulator.
That's something that has come up in my mechanical history again and again - bad voltage regulators.

In this case, it might have been my own fault. The voltage regulator cover is a heat sink. It's got these huge fins on it to dissipate the heat - which were of course caked with dried mud.
Dried mud, like ceramic, is good at retaining heat; exactly what the fins are trying to prevent. I try to wash that out after every ride, but it seems I missed it last time.
Nice design, putting the VR right in front of the tire where it can have mud thrown straight at it. Maybe I'll make a shield for it. But then it won't get any airflow. You just can't win.

It's possible that there is some other problem, but the dealer wants a diagnostic fee, then they'll overcharge for the part, and then of course they'll charge for the labor to swap it out, which will take longer because the door has to be removed to get to it. So I think I'll roll the dice and just replace it myself and see what happens. I just wish I could get one in time for the weekend.

Looks like once again the ACE will stay in the garage and the RZR will go adventuring with me.
 

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Scoundrel, thanks for the post. I just checked my Ace and there is a light coating of mud on the voltage regulator. I will wash it off and check it frequently from now on. I drove a RZR 1000 a couple of weeks ago. One-Shot came for a visit and we went to the Polaris dealer near me and he bought one. With the 110 HP engine, that thing is like riding on a keg of dynamite. When finances allow, I may get one and reserve the Ace for narrow trail usage.
 

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My 325 Ace speedo / dash light goes out sometimes but at far lower revs, there is a smell like over charged battery acid. It never lasts for long and altering the engine speed seems to help.
I rather though it was wetness on or in the fined voltage control unit which gets washed after being covered in mud at the end of the day. It only happens not long after being started, maybe still damp from yesterdays wash. once it warms up its fine, but I'm only guessing.

The engine warning light problem's went quiet but my light still comes on in low going slow under 4000 revs, any news on this?

I don't think high revs bothers these engines, even in neutral for a few seconds, 7000 or 8000 revs for a 325cc engine is not that high compared to a motor bike engine that can go 12 or 13000 revs. I am often at full throttle pulling a feed trailer up 1.5 mile hill showing 7800/8200revs, does it the world of good after all the slow work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your scenario sounds different than mine.
I'm pretty sure mine is cut-and-dried: I cooked the voltage regulator in hot dry mud, it died, and now the voltage spikes when the engine is cranking the crap out of the generator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
New VR installed today. It was a perfect fit, identical to the old one in every detail.
I revved the engine to 8000 with no instrument cluster issues, and held it at 7500 for a few seconds.
Flipped it over to the voltage readout while holding it at 7500, and it read 14.1 volts.
Everything seems back to normal now.
 
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