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I'm going to chime in here. This very topic has been discussed many times, many ways on other forums I've been on, and the bottom line is that there is no single right/wrong which covers every situation.Great post. But just a quick question...I ride tight hilly trails and hardly go over 25 mph. So should I just keep it in low gear for most of my riding with the ace? And should I have done this for my other atvs???? If so...whoops...
I didn't take it that way. I was simply providing more detail on my viewpoint/experience with the belt thing, since I felt I had something to add.Yeah sorry was not trying to tell any one how to handle their ride just was letting every one know the common problems and probable causes of things I have to work on mostly at the job. I just hate to see folks wasting good upgrade money on mostly preventative common problems I encounter daily. That and I could not stand seeing this part of the forum blank. I am sure lots of folks have some tips to share.
Thanks Rod for the great advice..Some of my machines will sit for months and I do add fuel stabilizers..Do you have a stabilizer you like the best? I also only use non-ethanol high test in my generators, motorcycles, ATV's and SXS. that fuel seems to not gum up and seems easier on the machines…Would you agree with that? Or I'm I wasting my money on the non ethanol fuel..ThanksI work at a Polaris dealership in Oklahoma and every week I do tons of repairs on atvs rngrs and rzrs, both carb and fuel infected. It cost 89$ an hour labor so Ill give you guys the low down on what simple things I do almost ever day that cost folks 200 to 300$ a pop for me to fix,and how to keep it out of the shop longer and save your self some cash.
1. The most common problem I get ever week is the simplest to fix. Bad gas. Believe it or not it can ruin every thing. On carb motors the gas tank has to be drained the fuel switch removed cleaned the lines cleaned and the carb removed cleaned and some times rebuilt. all from bad gas. Fuel injection is worse most of the time it clogs the in tank filter and ruins the fuel pump itself. At my store we rebuild the fuel pump although Polaris will make you replace the whole thing which is 500$ vs us rebuilding it for half that. To remedy all these problems it is simple DO NOT leave fuel in the tank over 1 month with out using fuel stablizer or draining the whole fuel system. If you go the stablizer route use what it says per amount you have in tank and when you get ready to run the machine again be sure to add fresh fuel, seafoam or chemtool or something to refresh the gas in the tank. Gas starts going bad after about 3weeks the longer it sits it starts turning to a gummy varnish substance which will clog up a fuel pump filter or on carb machines gum up all the jets and fuel valve. Btw on carb machines there is a drain screw on the bowl of your carb shut your fuel valve off and drain the carb also or bad gas just sits there over time mucking things up.
2. Fouled plugs. Most folks do not know or are in a hurry with their atv fouling can occur as often as a few times a week. Making your unit run like crap. To solve this on fuel injected models turn the key wait till you hear the buzzing stop on your fuel pump then start it and let it run for a min or so before using it. What happens is since it has no manual choke, it dumps tons of fuel into the cylinder like a choke would to start it. Most folks start and take off not letting the auto choke time to reduce the fuel being pumped into the cylinder causing the excess gas to be pumped into the crank case, in the oil, causing the oil to thin and over fill which then gets in the cylinder while its running causing fouling to the plug. At that time the unit will chug around and you will have to have an oil change and a new plug both not just one or the other. Not to mention gas in the oil will start to deteriorate seals and gaskets in the motor. Carb motors the same way except the choke is driver controlled and should be warmed up and not be driven with the choke out.
3. Belt replacement, most of the belts I replace every week are glassed or burnt from the driver running the machine in High gear everytime they ride it. 25 or below should be low gear only and 25 and above high gear. I know its a pain to stop to put in high all the time but in the long run it will save you money on belts and running low speeds in high also will cause grooves on the inside of your clutch walls costing you big money to have replaced.
Well I hope you all find this info helpful and I am looking forward to seeing more posts on like subjects, and yes just those 3 problems alone keep me busy day after day so they are very very common problems with simple ways to prevent them.