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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I think I may have talked Shep into manufacturing his 3/8" UHMW skid plates for the ACE. His go about ¼"-½" past the side so that they protect the quarter panels also and negate the need for expensive side nerf bars. I have his system on our Rzr and have beat the devil out of it on the rocks in UT and have not broken a thing over the last 4 years. His price on the Rzr plate is better than everyone elses and IMO, his product is superior also.

If anyone would be interested in one, please let me know, as I told him I thought there would be a good market for them, as all the other manufacturers leave the side quarter panels exposed and vulnerable to damage. I suppose they do this so they can sell the nerf bars instead of caring for their customers. Shep sells skid plates and doors for the Rzr, and they are available both on line and through Big O tires in Richfield UT.
 

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I suppose they do this so they can sell the nerf bars instead of caring for their customers.
They might do this to make their skid plates more compatible with other accessories that people might want to put on from other vendors, such as rock sliders or nerf bars.
People are fickle creatures. A lot of them don't want pre-accessorized vehicles because they want to "make it their own", or they have different preferences on what accessories to put on. A vendor can sell more units of their product if it is compatible with other products.
 

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I'll bite. Any pictures or pricing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I could post pictures of what it looks like on a Rzr and his price for the Rzr model is in the "low" $300's, shipped to your door. He is just now starting to look at the ACE and some preliminary engineering.
 

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I was thinking about making this out of aluminum. Maybe 3/16" or 1/4". Any thoughts on that?
 

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I have used aluminum skid plates before and I recommend against them. Go with the UHMW.

Aluminum plates will bend when they get hit and not bend back. After a while, you'll have trouble taking them off and putting them back on.
Also, when you get high centered on something, it feels like your underbody is velcroed to the obstacle. UHMW just slides right over.
Also, with aluminum, it's harder to counter-sink your mounting bolts so that they don't get hit by rocks.
Because the UHMW is thicker, you can drill halfway through it to sink the bolt heads.

Check out this thread: http://www.aceforums.net/forum/24-ace-protection/615-utv-inc-ace-3-8-uhmw-skid-plate.html
 

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Good points Scoundrel. I'm not sure if I even need one. Not many rocks here just mud, sand, branches. Most worried about stumps. I'm gonna price out 1/4" aluminum for the heck of it just cause I'm curious of the price difference. Does UHMW cut well? Can you cut it decent with a router do you know? I'll have to see what a sheet of that costs and research it a bit.
 

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yes it cuts easy with about anything sharp enough. like with any cutting operation you have to run the right speeds to avoid melting and balling up and having really sharp tools makes it so much easier. Tools for Al work great with most plastics.
I would agree for real sliding and protection it is the best. Al looks better...until you start damaging it anyway.

here is a link to some basic info on machining UHMW.
http://www.cncplastics.com/PDFs/MACHINING%20UHMW.pdf
 

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70cyclone - good info and tips. I guess I've used this stuff many times before, I just never really new the name. Always called it the smooth machinable plastic that's pretty flexible and usually white.
 

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white is virgin black (or other colors) is recycled (reprocessed as the MFG calls it)
most virgin is FDA suitable for food processing where the black is not. virgin UHMW is common for cutting boards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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1/4" aluminum is $282 for a 4'x8' piece. Yikes. I wonder if two would fit on a sheet? Haven't found a good price on the UHWM either.
 

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I have used aluminum skid plates before and I recommend against them. Go with the UHMW.

Aluminum plates will bend when they get hit and not bend back. After a while, you'll have trouble taking them off and putting them back on.
Also, when you get high centered on something, it feels like your underbody is velcroed to the obstacle. UHMW just slides right over.
Also, with aluminum, it's harder to counter-sink your mounting bolts so that they don't get hit by rocks.
Because the UHMW is thicker, you can drill halfway through it to sink the bolt heads.

Check out this thread: http://www.aceforums.net/forum/24-ace-protection/615-utv-inc-ace-3-8-uhmw-skid-plate.html
Do yourself a good deed and buy yourself a countersink instead of drilling halfway through any material and then use flat head machine screws, best to use grade 8 allen head.
Countersinks, 6 Flute, 120 Degree


I too agree the uhmw is just damn tuff.
 

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Do yourself a good deed and buy yourself a countersink instead of drilling halfway through any material and then use flat head machine screws, best to use grade 8 allen head.
Countersinks, 6 Flute, 120 Degree


I too agree the uhmw is just damn tuff.
I didn't make the plates, UTV Inc made my ACE plate and Factory UTV made my RZR plate. They drill some wide holes partway through, put these funky cup-shaped washers in them, and put the bolts in there.
It keeps the bolt heads from getting damaged even when something cuts a groove in the plate, and I've never seen or heard of one break through.
 

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Do yourself a good deed and buy yourself a countersink instead of drilling halfway through any material and then use flat head machine screws, best to use grade 8 allen head.
Countersinks, 6 Flute, 120 Degree


I too agree the uhmw is just damn tuff.
I would agree for the most part...tolerances are the biggest issue for mass producing something that will 'just bolt on' to all the machines out there. Drill a big hole and use a washer with a standard bolt and they will fit 99% of the time, use a tapered seat and 99% of the people will have issues installing the skid plate. For the guy building his own with the 'measure twice cut once' attitude countersinks are much better long term for sure.
 
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