My ace 570 is overheating. The fan comes on and cools the engine the first couple of times the engine gets hot. After a while the fan comes on but doesn't run long enough to cool. The fan will come on and run for a couple seconds and shut off. Then it will come on again maybe run a couple more seconds and stop again. Please any ideas on what could be causing this will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
overheating
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Is it going into limp mode? they have a over heating feature that will put the machine into "limp mode" if it over heats and it will limit your RPM to just over idle to make it back to the parking lot. It is normal for the fan to come on and off all the time.
Have you cleaned the radiator lately..... They get covered in mud after a few trips....sometimes a lot quicker than a Few trips. I spray mine out after every longer rideMy ace 570 is overheating. The fan comes on and cools the engine the first couple of times the engine gets hot. After a while the fan comes on but doesn't run long enough to cool. The fan will come on and run for a couple seconds and shut off. Then it will come on again maybe run a couple more seconds and stop again. Please any ideas on what could be causing this will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
It is going into limp mode. The temp gets up to 199 degrees and the fan tries to come on but after a couple seconds shuts itself off. Just won't stay on long enough to cool engine. It's a brand new ace, only had it for a couple weeks. Radiator clean. Thank you for the replies, intermediate problem, some times the fan stays on to cool and some times it shuts down early and it over heats.
199 is normal, mine goes up to 205-210 sometimes.
Try the fan only at home, maybe there is a problem with the fan motor.
Check the coolant liquid as well. Both of our Aces came with almost empty reservoir. The coolant was well below minimum level, so I took both back to the dealer and topped both up for free ofc.
Try the fan only at home, maybe there is a problem with the fan motor.
Check the coolant liquid as well. Both of our Aces came with almost empty reservoir. The coolant was well below minimum level, so I took both back to the dealer and topped both up for free ofc.
My fan doesn't even come on till it reaches 204 then just long enough to bring it down some then shuts off. If yours goes into limp mode at 199, maybe the gauge/sensor is bad? And definitely check the coolant level, my rad was full but there was none in the bottle.
Mine doesn't go into limp mode at 199 degrees. That's when my fan first comes on, then if it doesn't run long enough to bring the temp down it continues to climb until a red light comes on then it goes into limp mode. Just trying to figure out why my fan doesn't stay on long enough to cool the engine. It works fine some times and then only stays on a couple seconds.
sounds like a poor connection or a cooling fan relay issue. You can try swapping the cooling fan relay with the chassis relay(this relay supplies power to the lights,awd system and the 12v accessory plug) and see if the cooling fan issue is resolved. The cooling fan relay power is supplied on the red wire (terminal #30 on the relay). This power is run through a circuit breaker and if your cooling fan gets jammed or if it draws more than 20 amps of current,the circuit breaker will open and cause the fan to stop running until the circuit breaker resets again.
The fan relay is in the fuse box located behind the panel behind the driver's seat.When you take the cover off the fuse box,you will see the fuses and relays. The fan relay is the middle of the 3 relays that are in a row and next to the 20 amp lights fuse. The fan circuit breaker is also in this fuse box. The factory service manual is the best tool you can buy and will really help with understanding how things work and repairs.:eagerness:Thank you everyone for the feed back, can anyone please tell me where the fan relay is located. Can't seem to find it. Thank you
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102 Posts
so i have been dealing with what sounds to be the exact same issue. when i first start running it thew fan comes on at 199 and turns off at 190 f. but after letting it sit there at idle the fan will start to shut off at 195 instead of 190. And that trend continues until the machine starts to get up to 204-208 with slow trail riding. if i can maintain it at 10-15 mph the temp will stay down under 195. so i started checking my relays and fuses and i found a lot of corrision that when i started cleaning then created problems with the efi relay getting connection. using some flat style tooth pick i was able to scrub at the inside of the pins on the fuse box and shove die electric grease into the prongs, and cured my running issue to where i can ride and run it. unless i want to ride real slow. its like the fan relay is not getting connection still at fuse box. sometimes when i wiggle fan relay i can get the fan to come on at 192 or 194 instead of 199. but it usually comes on at 199. after i use it a while its like the fan has a shorter run time the longer i use the machine. i was swapping relays to get me back to the truck and i was thinking that since my relays where warm and swapping relays seemed to help that maybe my fan was bad and drawing to many amps and not getting enough fan speed as it gets hotter. so i replaced the fan. no change. i dont have a repair manual but im starting to think the 80$ is worth it. i have only seen the one temperature sensor mounted on the thermostat housing so i would assume that if it only has one temp sensor then the fan should always come on and off at the same temperatures and my gauge doesnt give me any random readings or temperature spikes. its always a gradual increase in temp with a shorter run time on the fan. sometimes when the fan turns off it tries to turn on then it goes right back off. i know its fan related i just havent been able to pinpoint why the fan cuts off the way it does.
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102 Posts
im assuming this is the circuit breaker thats in the fuse relay box behind the seat?sounds like a poor connection or a cooling fan relay issue. You can try swapping the cooling fan relay with the chassis relay(this relay supplies power to the lights,awd system and the 12v accessory plug) and see if the cooling fan issue is resolved. The cooling fan relay power is supplied on the red wire (terminal #30 on the relay). This power is run through a circuit breaker and if your cooling fan gets jammed or if it draws more than 20 amps of current,the circuit breaker will open and cause the fan to stop running until the circuit breaker resets again.
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102 Posts
once it gets warmed up fan doesnt run long enough to drop to 195. once its up to 204-205 it usually wont drop below 200 unless i start driving fast to move air over the radiator. the fan will only run for a minute or so and then turn off. wont come on til 5 min later. my main problem is once i start getting over 200 it doesnt want to cool down fan starts to cool it off but quits and then the temp rises again more than what it cooled off. im fixing to rewire this damn fan to come on key on and say screw it :sbike1:Normal after it gets warmed up good is fan on at 204-205 and fan off at 194-195.
Not the best idea :grief:im fixing to rewire this damn fan to come on key on and say screw it :sbike1:
Real simple to wire in a DIY fan override switch. There are even labeled (laser engraved) switches made specifically for this but you'll need to wire the switch to a relay to handle the fan's current.
If you aren't very savvy with relay stuff, you can buy a ready made kit that contains everything you need.
OP: I'd check your fluid levels and ensure the coolant system doesn't have air in it. Both of my ACEs needed extra coolant because the factory puts in barely enough to get it out the door.
If you aren't very savvy with relay stuff, you can buy a ready made kit that contains everything you need.
OP: I'd check your fluid levels and ensure the coolant system doesn't have air in it. Both of my ACEs needed extra coolant because the factory puts in barely enough to get it out the door.
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102 Posts
ive tried bleeding it through the bleeder on the thermostat housing but didnt get any bubbles from the bleeder, when i have time im going to try raising the front a couple of feet and running it with the cap off. but i never had a problem with it until a month ago. im almost convinced its the relay turning the fan off, im just not sure if its loosing connection or if its being commanded off. and rest assured if i do get pissed enough to wire around the factory wiring i will install a relay to support the amperage load. however since my girlfriend drives my ace when we go ride i will be wiring it to come on key on. im not gonna trust her to remember a switch and too watch a gauge.Real simple to wire in a DIY fan override switch. There are even labeled (laser engraved) switches made specifically for this but you'll need to wire the switch to a relay to handle the fan's current.
If you aren't very savvy with relay stuff, you can buy a ready made kit that contains everything you need.
OP: I'd check your fluid levels and ensure the coolant system doesn't have air in it. Both of my ACEs needed extra coolant because the factory puts in barely enough to get it out the door.
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102 Posts
its a very last resort and im not planning on it yet. im thinking of removing the pins on my fuse box first to see if i can clean them better.Not the best idea :grief:
Has anybody figured out a way to put a lower temp thermostat or a method to upgrade our existing cooling system?
I put in an aftermarket Ebay radiator in my wife's ACE that got hit by a tree-yes, the tree jumped out in front of the Ace. THe radiator was much thicker than stock and the Ebay vendor claimed it would offer 33% more cooling because it was 33% thicker. Guess what, it works as poorly as the factory radiator.
Wouldn't it be neat if the OEM roll over bars could be converted to run coolant to/from the radiator and act as a heat sink themselves? I had a motorcycle that run its oil thru the bike frame and I thought that was pretty nifty.
Would a larger pilot hole in the thermostat help keep it cool or is the thermostat pretty much open the whole time when riding in summer conditions?
I put in an aftermarket Ebay radiator in my wife's ACE that got hit by a tree-yes, the tree jumped out in front of the Ace. THe radiator was much thicker than stock and the Ebay vendor claimed it would offer 33% more cooling because it was 33% thicker. Guess what, it works as poorly as the factory radiator.
Wouldn't it be neat if the OEM roll over bars could be converted to run coolant to/from the radiator and act as a heat sink themselves? I had a motorcycle that run its oil thru the bike frame and I thought that was pretty nifty.
Would a larger pilot hole in the thermostat help keep it cool or is the thermostat pretty much open the whole time when riding in summer conditions?
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