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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maybe I should check the owners manual, but it's early morning and I don't want to wake the other half going to find it... for some reason she just wouldn't understand and appreciate the importance of knowing this information... So I'm just lying here pondering if the ACE has any readily available power termination points for live/ignition/earth or do I have to splice into existing feeds?
 

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take off the radiator access panel under the storage box there is exactly what your looking for , a terminal strip with three posts
battery +12 v, battery -12 v and switched 12 volt power
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cheers, thanks for that. Any body know what the fuse rating for this would be or am I better to run separate fuses to my add-on's?
 

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In my opinion, you need to add separate fuses to the add-ons. I believe that the battery terminal is a 6 AWG cable that runs straight from the battery to this terminal block.
 

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Cheers, thanks for that. Any body know what the fuse rating for this would be or am I better to run separate fuses to my add-on's?

I'd have to say it depends on what those add ons are. If its something that is going to draw enough current to heat the wire you are using with it, I'd say yes. If it's something like a 6awg heavy gauge cable for a winch, I seriously doubt you could ever heat such heavy wire to a point that it could heat and ignite using such a small battery and charging system as used in our atvs I have no breaker on my winch wires and have never had a heating problem at all. 6 Gauge wiring is used in bass boats to power the trolling motors and I have run those trolling motors for hours on end using both 12 and 24 volts hooked to two deep cycle batteries that have 250-300 amps total, and those wires never heated, or ever tripped a breaker. My opinion is that the more you add to the electrical system of these quads, the more possibility for an electrical problem down the line. Keep it as simple as possible and if in doubt ask a professional. Remember wiring is just like water pipe, the larger the size the more water or electricity that can pass through with less restriction, and restriction in wiring is what causes heat and the need for breakers. Good heavy wire and low amp draw accessories can run for years or forever without fuses or breakers. My 3500# winch didn't even come with a fuse or circuit breaker, so I guess the professionals know what they need and what they don't need
 

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I always wire the winch to keyed power. In case it locks up etc.

I always run the engine when winching on such a small battery.

I had considered adding a disconnect to the battery, but had not got around to it.
 

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I always wire the winch to keyed power. In case it locks up etc.

I always run the engine when winching on such a small battery.

I had considered adding a disconnect to the battery, but had not got around to it.

Mungo...I don't understand this statement quote I always wire the winch to keyed power. In case it locks up etc.

If the winch locks up, just releasing the switch will stop power to the winch be it switched or continuous power, but I also always wire the rocker switch to switched power also
 

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I'm wanting to put two LED lights on my front bumper. Is this a possible hookup sight to avoid direct connect to the battery? Electrically slow. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm wanting to put two LED lights on my front bumper. Is this a possible hookup sight to avoid direct connect to the battery? Electrically slow. Thanks
I'd run a separate fuse... How many watts are the LEDs? I've mounted a 60watt LED which by my calculations draws 5amps at 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay so I've just opened up the front, and instead of seeing the terminal block there appears to be a sealed black shafty looking thing with the power wires coming out... am I missing something or is there a model variation where the block isn't exposed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pull the plastic safety cover off of it!!!
Thanks, I was wondering if that was the case. It's a real pain for me to see and work on being in a chair, as with the reverse opening hood I can't get high enough to see inside the compartment properly.
 

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Jezza
You know as well as I do, that when you are in a chair, you got to go about doing things different. Maybe you can make juducious use of a mirror on an adjustable rod. The last thing to do to get in there is to remove the pins and pull the cover off. (pita) You'll get it figgured out. Be careful when you do get in there. I had to use a long extension on a socket set using only one hand. Some of the wires down in there are directly linked to the battery.
 

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I got two 27 watts each, so 54. I got a wire harness with online 40 amp fuse and relay on it.
 

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Stoutcat, not sure what gauge wire your using but I'm sure it is pretty small to support a 54 watt light setup. You should probably think about going with a much smaller fuse. 54 watts is only going to draw about 4.5 amps at 12 volts so you might want to think about going from a 40 amp fuse down to a 10 or 15 amp. That would help tremendously if you had a failure (short) in the light or wiring if you are using small gauge wire. You are using a relay and that is always a good idea. I typically don't worry about relays unless I'm getting above the 8-10 amp range personally but I do buy good Carling switches that are 20amp rated and run heavier wire than necessary. I always fuse the link but just don't always worry about the relay, especially if I want to use the accessory without key power.
 
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