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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got thru the 1st 4 days of my new Ace. Have been putting a cooler in the rear storage area. Temp way high back there. Tough to keep food and drink cold. I would bet that is also hot enough to bake anything that would be stored in the black Polaris box too.

ANybody found a cure?/ Block the heat ? Insulate the storage area or???
 

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kserkes, I have done a lot of insulation on my Ace, primarily for cab heat. I now have the cab sufficiently insulated that it is very close to ambient temperature. I have used a variety of materials and replaced those that did not work well as measured with an accurate infrared thermometer. The DEI floor and tunnel shield is the best product that I have personally used. It withstands up to 1750 degrees of direct continuous heat. I can tell you that the exhaust system of the Ace 330, including the headers are much less than that as measured with my infrared thermometer. This stuff has a self adhesive backing and is 3/16 inch thick. I have removed the adhesive backing and permanently adhered it in places and just fold it around components in other places. This is a link to it on Amazon. They also sell it in smaller sizes.

I have also wrapped my exhausts and removed the rear plastic and placed this under the rear plastic. I currently have a piece of it placed under the rear storage box just to keep heat from percolating through the bottom of the storage box. This does heat up the rear plastic so I don't know what the long term effect will be on the rear plastic. I also cut a piece of this and surrounded my air box to protect it from the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Guess I'll get out my IR thermo and begin the process. To bad that Polaris did not do it right.
 

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Guess I'll get out my IR thermo and begin the process. To bad that Polaris did not do it right.
I think a lot of times we forget that Polaris designs a specific atv for a purpose and they decide what that purpose is. Our melting ice or hot sandwich wasn't part of their design, needless they make no correction for it. It doesn't make it a fact they didn't do it right, just that it wasn't designed into the atv. This is like people who complain of water damage after they ride their atvs much deeper in water than they are designed for. If you want cool drinks either get a better cooler or modify your machine to make it not as hot as to melt your ice. I haven't seen this problem discussed on the 570s yet, just the 330's I know I had a cheap cooler in a bag sitting right over the air filter on my 570 and had cold drinks all day, so this may be a more model specific condition, then again there may have been some improvement between the years or maybe the 570 doesn't produce as much exhaust heat as the 330. I know after riding with Stubby one day that his 330 was always hotter than my 570 as far as the coolant. How that would translate into exhaust heat...I don't have a clue. It might be as simple as putting a piece of carpet under your cooler. Try that and see what happens. Stubbys 330 also has high heat in his cargo box
 

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I was concerned on putting the 3-gal rotopax gas tanks in the back cargo of the XP so got some of that DEI or like and cut and duct taped it as a cup holder like thing, apx 6" high to put the containers in.

Thought was the bottom could still breath as needed, not sure how that works with a full covered storage covering the bottom, but seemed to work on the XP.. actually, wasn't that hot to begin with, but more for peace of mind

Suspect if you did the same thing for the cooler, you might have it fixed. Of course the cooler needs to be decent one, not a YETI, but a reasonably good one, Coleman?.

Stuff seems to work, expensive, but effective..

Always sumpt'n right??

fun..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just ordered some of the materials to begin the project. How did you remove the adhesive backing and what did you use for permanent adhesive? Why did you think this was necessary over the "self" adhesive?? Thx
 

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kserkes, if you are referring to the DEI, I must have been unclear in my post. I did not remove the adhesive backing. It has a clear plastic layer that covers the adhesive. You can peel this clear plastic layer off to expose the adhesive and stick it to almost any clean surface. It is very sticky so do it right the first time. There are places that I did not peel of the plastic layer to expose the adhesive. I just molded the product around

View attachment 3826

This is a photo of the wrapped air box. The aluminum foil is quite stiff so the DEI product can be molded around something and it keeps it shape quite well. The white side is a layer of fiberglass covered in adhesive and a layer of clear plastic over the adhesive.

View attachment 3827

This is a photo of the air box from the rear. I have circled where I peeled a bit of the protective plastic off the adhesive and stuck the insulation to the air intake. I also wrapped a piece of the insulation on the bottom of the air intake to protect it from the exhaust heat. On my Ace, Polaris had some minimal insulation on the bottom of the air intake. The insulation was not placed carefully and it was not between the air intake and the exhaust. This bad placement made the Polaris insulation useless.

View attachment 3828

This is the inspection plate that covers the engine compartment behind the seat. I covered the inside of this with the DEI product and adhered it to the plate.

View attachment 3829

This is the engine compartment behind the seat. I cut a piece of the insulation and just worked in inside the opening. I made the piece as wide as possible to shield the cab from the exhaust heat. With the full doors in place, the back of my right arm would get hot from the exhaust heat coming through the plastic. With this in place, the cab is now at ambient temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info and pics.I have materials and some tape on order as of today. Also bought some exhaust wrap to see if that also helps
 

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Kserkes,

I initially wrapped my entire exhaust system including the header and muffler. I was advised by Scoundrel that the transmission exhaust cools the header so I might be setting myself up for trouble. The union of the header and exhaust pipe is held together by two strong springs. I had those springs under the exhaust wrap. Within a few hours I cooked those springs and weakened them to the point that I developed an exhaust leak. I removed the insulation from the header and the springs and wrapped only the exhaust pipe and muffler. Others have expressed the opinion that wrapping the exhausts may cause the engine to run leaner and lead to engine damage. This is the thread where I described my initial insulation experiment. I have since converted from the foam insulation to the DEI tunnel and floor shield. I initially chose the foam backed insulation because of the sound deadening properties. I gave up on reducing the engine noise.
 
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