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Discussion Starter #1
Hey yall, haven't posted in awhile but I have noticed when I get in mine after sitting for awhile it tends to take a bit to start. Anyone else running into that? I'm about due for my 50hr so idk if it's that or something bigger. It runs great, just starting.

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Hey, there, about how long are you talking that it sits when it becomes hard to start. 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 24 hours, etc? Do you hear the fuel pump "prime up" and pressurize the system when you turn on the key? Any codes come up in the speedometer? How many times or how long do you have to crank it before it hits? Does it seem to fire but not keep running when you engage the starter? Sorry to ask so many questions, but this will help us all figure out what is happening....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tops 24hrs, pump is priming and no codes. It'll crank for a bit and not fire, then I'll stop crank and turn again and fires up. Just seems odd

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Easiest thing to check is spark plug and wire.
If it runs fine after starting it's probably not fuel delivery or compression.
If the plug was fouled or cracked or the wire was loose, I'd expect it to run rough after starting though.

The fact that it only happens after sitting for a while makes me start wondering about oil or antifreeze in the cylinder. Any smoke?
I don't know how accessible the spark plug hole is, but maybe remove the plug, turn the engine manually until the cylinder is near TDC, and put a cotton swab in there to see if there's something in there that should not be.
 

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After doing what Scoundrel said, with the plug out, you can put the plug back in the boot on the end of the wire, ground the body of the plug against the engine, and watch for a good blue spark immediately when cranking. You can also check to see if you smell gas in the air escaping from the cylinder immediately when cranking the engine. If you don't smell gas right away, she won't fire right up. You have to have gas, air, spark to fire it up. Mine spins about 3 revolutions after sitting overnight before kicking off. After that, it will fire right up. Does your gas have a lot of ethanol in it?
 

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Is it possible to have a situation where you don't have spark right away when cranking, but then it comes up and is reliable after start?
I didn't mention spark test because I figured if it had good spark after starting, it must have had good spark during starting.

The timing on these things is all hard-coded electronic, right? Is there some way the computer could be confused about whether/when the spark should be advanced?
Not that there's anything the average wrench monkey could do about that. If it's not throwing codes...

Compression test is next on the list.
 

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Oh very much so. Scoundrel you are absolutely right. Used to be the instant you turned on the ignition, the coil primary received voltage and waited on either points or a reluctor to signal the coil to fire it's voltage down the spark plug wire. Now, the ecu (engine control unit) waits for a signal from the crankshaft position sensor indicating rpm, throttle position sensor, fuel pressure sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, and if they all fall within proper parameters, the fuel injector and spark are turned on. Thank goodness the ecu can calculate and process this quickly or we could run down the battery before it would start.
 

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So to paraphrase: Sumthin's broke.
But without a code from the computer to tell us what, we just look at the physical stuff us meat bags know how to check, and look for the obvious.
 

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Rule #1 for ANY engine with a computer controlled system: DO NOT let your battery cables get corroded! Be sure all ground cables and wires are connected to the frame ( for the computer ) and/or engine block if engine is on rubber mounts ( for the engine sensors ).

Back in 1973, two of my cycle buddies & I went riding one afternoon, and stopped at a nice pizza parlor for some food and refreshments. When we finished eating, saddled up, and had traveled less than a half mile up the road, I looked in my rear mirror and noticed that the fellow riding the Suzuki 2 stroke was no where to be seen! We turned our cycles around and went back to find him stopped on the shoulder of the road. He already had the tool kit out and was removing a spark plug. (Apparently his bike suffered from over-oiling-itis, where the oil was prolific enough to constantly foul the plugs) In this instance, that was not the case. I looked up above the cylinder head and noticed that the fuel valve was in the "off" position. I said, "..Daryl, what about the gas? Have you turned on the gas?" He looked up at me, spark plug in hand, with a look of complete wonderment in his eyes as if I was speaking a foreign language. That 2 second totally puzzled look was just priceless!

He muttered, "...gas?....Oh, gas!" then turned around and looked at the petcock under the tank and exclaimed, "oh, $#%@!!!" and turned on the valve. He replaced the plug, and away we went. Funny how these things won't run without spark, gas, and air!
 

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Hey there, rolltidehack, does the plug look good? How many miles are on it? Has it ever gotten water in the intake? Do you have any stations that sell 100% gas (no ethanol) in your area?
 

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Unfortunately the OP never followed up.
That's one of the worst things about forums - when you search and find a thread that sounds very relevant to your issue, and then there's no resolution at the end.
Very disappointing.
 

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I have had this issue with mine as well from the get go and I now have 1200 miles on mine. The biggest thing I noticed on my Ace is that my brake pedal has to be pushed pretty hard in order for it to start. Soft hold on the pedal doesn't work on mine. So I figured mine was just a little more finicky as far as how hard you push the brake pedal when starting it. Might be the issue?? Maybe once it doesn't start you are pushing the brake a little harder and don't realize it?? Just a thought!
 

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my brake pedal has to be pushed pretty hard in order for it to start
This is probably something that can be adjusted. There is usually an adjuster for that.
Do you also find that you have to push pretty hard for the brake lights to come on?
It's probably the same switch for both things, and if your brake lights only come on when you stomp on the brake (full skid stop), you might be in danger of being rear-ended on the trail.

Update: I just went out and looked. I was thinking of bikes that have a cable brake. Those have adjusters.
Bikes with hydraulic brakes just have a pressure switch, no adjustments.

The good news is that the switch in question is pretty cheap and easily accessible.
You'll find it in the front right wheel well just behind the radiator.
If you're still under warranty, I suggest you have your dealer try replacing it.
I don't have to push my brake pedal crazy hard to start.

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You're not the only one. I think at least two others have had trouble with that switch.
However, one of them hosed it down and then it froze overnight full of water. :)
 
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