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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I go overboard planning for accessories, I need to pick your collective brains on how many toys an ACE will actually support. By all means, please correct any info &/or ideas I may have wrong.

As best as I can tell, the stator's max output is 560-watts @ 3,000-RPM. Assuming it puts out about 14.4-volts (typical of most automotive applications), that calcs to 38.8-amps (W/V=A). Someone on another Polaris forum said that all 570 machines (with this stator) generally use about 70% of the capacity, just to run the basics. I thought that was kinda high until I did the math: 70% of 38.8 = about 27-amps. Then I added things up:

Headlights: 100W = 7A
Tail Lights: 14W = 1A
Brake Lights: 54W = 3.8A
Fuel Pump: Estimate 6A (typical of most)
Radiator Fan: Est. 6A
Ignition, ECMs, etc.: Est.3

Sure enough, there's about 27A. That leaves roughly 11A for add-ons.

I thought about swapping OEM lighting with LEDs, but that opens a whole 'nutter can of worms.
It looks like the ACE's caboose is wired like most others. The bulbs are just #3157, but the LED versions look for two negatives and respond to +12VDC at the other terminals to determine lo/hi illumination. From what I can tell, Polaris has two common +12VDCs and uses negative to complete the tail/stop circuits. This confuses most bulbs' circuitry which causes them to remain on high at all times. Some come pre-wired with ballast resistors which make them work, but can confuse the vehicle's CAN and trigger CAN Bus errors.

On the other end, the headlights are nothing more than Type #886 bulbs (Halogen 50W w/angled PGJ13 base, T3.25 bulb). Here, too, the LED idea kinda tipped over and blew up on the launch pad. Initial #886 lumens are generally 1,257 (each). The brightest LEDs I could find are 880-lumens. I'd save electricity but end up with little more than parking lights. And I'm not spending what they're asking fore OEM LED upgrades.

The short question of all this is, "Any ideas how to cut this thing's electrical consumption?"
 

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In the owners manual, the 570 is listed at 650 watts at 7000 rpm. You will probably spend more time in the 5-6k rpm range so output might be a bit less. Personally I will almost never use the headlights once my lights and light bar go on. I will be adding a 30" radius bar to the cage and a pair of 40 watt lights on the brush guard. I don't think output will be an issue until you throw in power steering, that is a huge amp draw, especially at or near idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Many thanks. That makes things much better. I wasn't overly impressed with EPS on the machines I tested, except for the 4P & 6P trail buses, so I don't see that in my immediate future.

I thought about sequencing fore & aft lights so only one could be on at a time to save power. But with this new revelation I'm thinking I'll keep them independently switched and probably go with a couple 10-watt cubes on the back. I'll still have rock crawlers so the backside won't need excessive illumination.

Quick side note on the "oldtimer" chat, your ACE certainly has a "handsome" big brother. But why is he so .... green? :icon_rolleyes:
 

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Ouachita, the battery begins to drain as there is not enough juice to run everything and charge the battery. Not usually a big deal if it isn't constantly happening.
 

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I know nothing on this, but have read that a few people are getting a bigger battery or more are adding an additional battery and running the "extras" off of the 2nd one. They have a switch, apx $125, that allows both batteries to charge but will cut off on the original one if draining or something like that.

The point is the 2nd battery.
And apologies, i don't have an ACE yet, just going by RZR forums so I have no idea on the available space much less the "Terms" that I'm hopelessly getting 'confusaled' on

Just a though eh?, 2nd battery.


fun..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
@ fpoole, luvdamud, & ouachita

You're right about the battery's role. Remember the old grade school math problems about filling a leaky bucket and how long it would take to fill or drain completely? It's kinda like that. Which is why one of the first things I do when adding electrical goodies is to upgrade the battery. I put an AGM in my truck and wouldn't hesitate a second to put one in any ATV. This was discussed in another thread somewhere that I'm not finding at the moment. This is how a winch (with phenomenal current draw) can be used briefly, but takes the battery a while to recharge - i.e. recover what was used.

Dual batteries are common, but require an isolation circuit as fpoole mentioned. There are electronic varieties and manual switches, but their purpose is the same. Under normal-load conditions you want the alternator to charge both. But in times of high draw you only want one to discharge so you don't end up with 2 dead batts and no way to restart. More "normal" system draw leaves less available to recharge the battery, which means it takes longer to reach full charge. It would be like having a hole in the hose filling the leaky bucket.

Then there's the matter of "parasitic draw." That's the small, but omnipresent current used to keep the computer powered-up, even when a vehicle is off. A larger automotive battery with a much more powerful alternator can tolerate this normal drain much better than a system on a smaller ATV battery ... which is why a maintainer is important. I haven't dug into the nuts-&-bolts (or 1's & 0's) of ACE's electronics, but it's obviously got some kind of electronic control system. Granted, not as sophisticated as a car's or truck's, but EFI is a telltale sign that something's on-board.

Hey ... don't sell yourselves short. I think you guys understand more about this than you think. I don't profess to have all the answers, but ... please ... never hesitate to ask. More than happy to help as I can.

Addendum/Edit: I don't have my ACE yet either, but Hayseed posted some excellent pix showing his horn & winch power installation. From the looks of things, there isn't a whole lotta spare real estate but with a bit of MacGyverizing it's not impossible.
 

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Well we have a few 570 razrs in our group and they all run big stereos, light bars and leds and all they did was put bigger battery. None have had an issue to date.
 

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Well we have a few 570 razrs in our group and they all run big stereos, light bars and leds and all they did was put bigger battery. None have had an issue to date.
I just bought a new ACE 570 and the factory was very stingy on battery space. In fact, it is very difficult to even get to the battery if you need to change it or get a jump. I went so far as to install external battery access posts just above the battery under the left side of the seat. Now to Cycle Gear to get another pair of ATV jumper cables. When this battery dies, I will definitely go for the best battery I can get. While I was installing a winch, I really looked the rig over for a place to put a 2nd battery. It might be possible to strap one on the inside firewall on the left side.

In regard to a 'back up battery isolator'. You can buy them at a RV place. They have 3 terminals. Alternator positive in and two isolated alternator outs to the two batteries. You can also build one with two heavy duty diodes. Then you need a manual switch to reconnect them to start the rig if the main battery dies. This is how they keep starter and house batteries in motor homes charged but independent.

Another person was talking about lights. I have been using the blue xenon bulbs in my cars for years. They give off a brighter and white light. I got them for my ACE. They give a pure white light which is really bright but I cannot find any lumen specs on them even via Google.
 
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