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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently took my sway bar off. Even with shocks set to 2nd stiffest position, I’m not happy with the amount of body roll considering the type of riding I do.

Considering how it would work if I put limit straps on the back shock mount bolts to limit the amount of body roll. This way it still maintains true independent suspension, and all the benefits of no sway bar, without the excess body roll. Will this work?
 

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No. Limit straps will limit downward wheel travel, but not upward travel, so the body would still be free to lean to the outside of the turn.
The reason a swaybar works is it actively transfers wheel movement from one side to the other, so when the body jeans to the outside and the suspension on that side compresses, it also compresses the suspension on the inside of the turn, keeping the body level. (Well, more level than it would have been) more movement = more movement transferred. You can't get that with limit straps.
 

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Also, the preload adjustment doesn't affect stiffness of the shocks. It's simply to set ride height with different weight in the machine or to adjust fir sagging springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No. Limit straps will limit downward wheel travel, but not upward travel, so the body would still be free to lean to the outside of the turn.
The reason a swaybar works is it actively transfers wheel movement from one side to the other, so when the body jeans to the outside and the suspension on that side compresses, it also compresses the suspension on the inside of the turn, keeping the body level. (Well, more level than it would have been) more movement = more movement transferred. You can't get that with limit straps.

Yes but if you can limit the amount the suspension drops down, you can prevent the a arms from dropping when in hard body lean. If you can limit that it will keep contact with the ground, limiting body roll. The ace will not go up on 2 wheels easily in my conditions.
 

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No, it doesn't work that way. The swaybar is actively fighting body roll, when one tire goes up, it causes the tire on the other side to go up, keeping things level.
What you are talking about is passively trying to fight it.
You can't just eliminate down travel to solve the problem.
In order for the limiting strap "solution" to help, you would need to get them so tight that you are severely limiting down travel, meaning any time your tire hits a hole it will be unable to follow the terrain, you lose traction and have terrible ride quality.
I mean yea, if you simply eliminate suspension travel altogether, boom, no body roll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No, it doesn't work that way. The swaybar is actively fighting body roll, when one tire goes up, it causes the tire on the other side to go up, keeping things level.
What you are talking about is passively trying to fight it.
You can't just eliminate down travel to solve the problem.
In order for the limiting strap "solution" to help, you would need to get them so tight that you are severely limiting down travel, meaning any time your tire hits a hole it will be unable to follow the terrain, you lose traction and have terrible ride quality.
I mean yea, if you simply eliminate suspension travel altogether, boom, no body roll.
I guess I understand where your coming from. In my mind I didn’t think I would have to cinch down the limit straps that much but now it makes since. Maybe bandit springs will offset the performance of the machine.
 

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Even just upgrading your springs will make a huge difference from what I hear. Enough in an rzr that you can remove the front swaybar and not really notice it.
 

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I suggest you try going with the High Lifter 2inch lift kit, it stiffens up the handeling into a much better ride.
 

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Suspension is a compromise. If you don’t want to use the sway bar, going to a dual rate spring might be better where you still have some compliance with the softer spring, but once it hits the crossover it stiffens up to help prevent body roll. Keep in mind, as you run stiffer springs, you lose compliance and articulation. The clickers only control the rate of change, the springs control the total change. Ideally your springs should be as soft as possible and still be at your target ride height, your damping then controls how the hits are absorbed. Softer springs the damping absorbs the energy on compression, stiffer springs it absorbs the energy on the rebound.

Suspension is a compromise. :)
 

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Bandit springs, if you can get them will eliminate the need for a sway bar and give you some lift and slightly improve the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have been looking for a dual rate spring kit for a 570, but there are no true dual rates that I can find. Would a rzr 570 dual rate kit work or would it be too stiff?

Does the bandit kit fully eliminate body roll without a sway bar, and do you need a lift with the bandit springs?
 

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No, you don't need a lift kit with the Bandit springs.
The springs are a good compromise between running without the sway bar and running the sway bar with stock springs.
I ride mostly twisty narrow hilly eastern trails and they are great for that.
Good stability on side hills and good articulation.
My springs are the stage 2 medium rate.
 
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