Hello. I just want to urge everyone to check their throttle cable. I found mine resting on top of the motor where it could potentially get hot and melt. I was able to zip tie mine over away from the motor to the ECU harness. Happy riding to everyone!
Great job to alert us to this! Last night, I checked mine, and it was fairly close, so I pulled it over where there was some air space, but the main thing I found was that I had entirely too much free play in the accelerator pedal. The pedal would push down about 3/8" before the engine would accelerate. The owner's manual said about 1/16" to 1/8" free is the recommendation. I found the adjuster after removing the seat and the panel behind the seat. Lo and behold you did not need wrenches to make the adjustment! They were thinking! Pull the rubber boot covering the adjuster assembly back over the locking wheel to expose the adjuster assembly. There is a small wheel to be turned to free the adjuster, turn the adjuster to take up the excess slack in the throttle cable, check for proper free play at the accelerator pedal, then re-tighten the small locking wheel to the adjuster. Next, start the engine, kick the accelerator pedal a couple of times to rev up the engine and let it come back to idle. If it idles properly, revs up, and comes right back to idle as it should, you're done. If it idles erratically or too fast, readjust the cable to put a little slack back into the cable.
My adjuster was turned all the way in so that it must have never been adjusted properly to begin with. Now that job is done!
Yep one of the first things I had to do was adjust the free play in my pedal too, same deal! I hope everyone catches their throttle cable before something happens since there is no throttle over ride that I have found yet.
Thanks for calling my attention to this. My throttle cable had a bit more play that it needed, but the main thing is that the locking wheel was loose. The rubber boot was already off of the adjuster, and there was nothing to keep it from vibrating to a different setting. I started the engine, tightened up the slack until the RPMs increased, then backed it off 1 turn. But then when I was pulling the boot back over the adjuster, the RPMs went up when I moved the cable, so I gave it another turn of slack. Don't want a cable position shift to create a runaway engine scenario.
Regarding the heat, my cable is touching the valve cover at the corner, but I don't really see how I could change this. Also, there is a plastic wiring loom lower down touching the cylinder head. It's kind of wedged in there, and I don't see any way I could change that either, without cutting and adding wire and re-routing it. I don't think the motor gets hot enough at these points to melt plastic.
BTW, as an added bonus, I just realized that I can peek at the drive belt through the PVT exhaust pipe behind the seat! I can only see a small bit of it, but if the belt was severely damaged, I think I'd be able to tell by looking through there.
Thanks Scoundrel. Yeah I should have added that my cable was actually touching the manifold so that was my concern as far as heat. Brand new machine out great that we can all work together to find all the little things that need a little attention. Fun machine now if riding season would hit my neck of the woods I would really get to test it out instead of riding my trails on my property only. Still a ton of fun though!!!
Thanks, Scoundrel! I knew you'd get a pic for us. I was too tired last night to go in and get my cell phone to take a picture, as I was checking on it and fixing it about midnight. It's a wonder I remember doing it! That is exactly what mine looked like, even though the owner's manual said there was an adjusting nut on it. Sorry your boot was off of the adjuster. I put a little silicone grease in either end of the boot to help it slide and maybe help keep water out of it...
I'm all about the pics. I think it helps us communicate and eliminates ambiguity in descriptions, and I think pics make a forum come to life.
I'm a little confused about what you said here: "That is exactly what mine looked like, even though the owner's manual said there was an adjusting nut on it."
I think that the long hex-shaped thing that the boot fits over is the adjusting nut, and the knurled wheel at the end is the locknut that holds the adjusting nut in place.
You are right, maybe I was quite a little ambiguous. I was replying in between phone calls at work.
What I meant was my adjuster looks exactly like your adjuster, but is different than what is shown in the owners manual. Our adjuster does not use a hex nut to lock it, nor was the adjuster piece hex shaped, so ours does not require a wrench to make the adjustments. It can be easily accomplished by hand without tools.
No worries, I'm with you on that! I love sharing good information with folks if it will be of benefit. Thanks to everyone for the valuable information and tips! Keep up the good work Scoundrel! I enjoy it!
Report back: I just got back from driving the ACE up into the mountains for the first time. got a chance to go up a100 percent grade with it, i.e. 45 degree slope. that was just plain exciting. I never felt like I had to lean forward or was nervous that the front end was going to lift up. but am I ever glad that I did adjust the throttle cable. it made it so much more controllable and very precise in climbing that steep incline. I will have to admit I am very much impressed. So was my older brother. He was in front of me on his Bombardier 500. I'm hooked!
I am glad I found this forum,i had the same problem with the accelerator. I saw the picture of the adjustment setup in owners manual.but could not find it so I thought they did one way for the u.s.a and other for overseas.so I was about to chuck it in so thanks for the info
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