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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I have a 2014 Ace 325 and the seal has gone on the water pump. I cant find any install info and first attempt was a fail when I replaced the two seals and ended up with coolant in the oil.

Every youtube clip on replacing these shows everything BUT the 325 and the seal configurations must have changed on the later model as mine has an integrated nut on the impellor.

Main waterpump shaft seal #3610173 and inner seal was a type s # 5411197.
Its frustrating as I had waited since earl November for the part to arrive her in Aus. Seems I over compressed the seal on the inbuilt thrust washer and burnt it out.. But it could be I screwed up somewhere else.


If anyone has advice or a page from the service manual would be much appreciated

Cheers Mal
 

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Hi all, I have a 2014 Ace 325 and the seal has gone on the water pump. I cant find any install info and first attempt was a fail when I replaced the two seals and ended up with coolant in the oil.

Every youtube clip on replacing these shows everything BUT the 325 and the seal configurations must have changed on the later model as mine has an integrated nut on the impellor.

Main waterpump shaft seal #3610173 and inner seal was a type s # 5411197.
Its frustrating as I had waited since earl November for the part to arrive her in Aus. Seems I over compressed the seal on the inbuilt thrust washer and burnt it out.. But it could be I screwed up somewhere else.


If anyone has advice or a page from the service manual would be much appreciated

Cheers Mal
iam just about to start on mine iam just trying to figure out how to get the impeller off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the impeller is the unit with 10-11mm nut incorporated it the impeller, this is reverse thread. It should have an arrow on it showing undo. I found this out the hard way lol

the other tip is use a socket to tap the seal in, I made an insert to fit inside the socket to push both seal rim and the interference fit, “inner part” of the seal On the shaft so it did not over compress the thrust washer inside the seal. I had killed the first seal by tapping the inner section and compressed the thrust washer.

best of luck, an insert tool would be a good option as I don’t think the “1 1-4 socket is enough but YouTube guys seem to have done it, so it’s possible.
 

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Hi all, I have a 2014 Ace 325 and the seal has gone on the water pump. I cant find any install info and first attempt was a fail when I replaced the two seals and ended up with coolant in the oil.

Every youtube clip on replacing these shows everything BUT the 325 and the seal configurations must have changed on the later model as mine has an integrated nut on the impellor.

Main waterpump shaft seal #3610173 and inner seal was a type s # 5411197.
Its frustrating as I had waited since earl November for the part to arrive her in Aus. Seems I over compressed the seal on the inbuilt thrust washer and burnt it out.. But it could be I screwed up somewhere else.


If anyone has advice or a page from the service manual would be much appreciated

Cheers Mal
Hi Mal, what's the mileage/hours on your Ace now? I have not had any major issues with my 325 to date - owned from new and now 2700km, 259 hrs. The water pump issue sounds tricky to deal with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Mal, what's the mileage/hours on your Ace now? I have not had any major issues with my 325 to date - owned from new and now 2700km, 259 hrs. The water pump issue sounds tricky to deal with?
I picked up the ACE in parts with motor out. Radiator was caked with grass seed so it was likely cooked as it looked to have been rebuilt but the guy I got it off didn’t know why motor was out. Clock shows 17000 klms or 8000
hours. It runs strong.

if you take time it’s a simple enough job. Replace both seals as the oil seal is tucked in behind the water seal. When my first attempted failed the seal dispersed a tar like gunk that blokes the tell tale water bleed and must have pressurised the oil seal forcing water into engine. If you keep in mind there is a sweet spot on the seal and not press the inner bearing on the shaft too far as it causes friction the thrust washer in the seal. I waited 2 months for the seal which really sucked ass buggering the first and waiting for the second.
 

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If the impeller is the unit with 10-11mm nut incorporated it the impeller, this is reverse thread. It should have an arrow on it showing undo. I found this out the hard way lol

the other tip is use a socket to tap the seal in, I made an insert to fit inside the socket to push both seal rim and the interference fit, “inner part” of the seal On the shaft so it did not over compress the thrust washer inside the seal. I had killed the first seal by tapping the inner section and compressed the thrust washer.

best of luck, an insert tool would be a good option as I don’t think the “1 1-4 socket is enough but YouTube guys seem to have done it, so it’s possible.
thanks for the heads up on that one. Question when i popped the top cap on the water pump there was just a seal there was no thermostat did yours have a thermostat ? I just got a copy of the service manual and everything is pointing to yes even shows a diagram of a blown up pump and it shows a thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the heads up on that one. Question when i popped the top cap on the water pump there was just a seal there was no thermostat did yours have a thermostat ? I just got a copy of the service manual and everything is pointing to yes even shows a diagram of a blown up pump and it shows a thermostat.
Mine has the skeleton remains of thermostat. I don’t see much point in running them here as it’s not cold enough to matter, eliminating the spring Is one less potential problem but keeping the housing keeps flow restricted enough to cool. It’s something I do with all farm type equipment that can sit for a while without regular use.
Might be worthwhile running one In NZ due to it being cooler. they squeeze a bit of power out of a small motor so consistent temp is a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mine has the skeleton remains of thermostat. I don’t see much point in running them here as it’s not cold enough to matter, eliminating the spring Is one less potential problem but keeping the housing keeps flow restricted enough to cool. It’s something I do with all farm type equipment that can sit for a while without regular use.
Might be worthwhile running one In NZ due to it being cooler. they squeeze a bit of power out of a small motor so consistent temp is a good thing.
This is what I used. Plastic fitting ground down to depth of seal to sit sweet. I tossed the modified one.
Automotive tire Paint Bicycle part Rim Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
got my seals in could not find those fittings you use but stacked washers inside the socket some thick and some thin. Iam still over heating but i think iam chasing a air bubble i cant believe there is no bleeder screw.
Cool, well nearly ;)
I’m glad it worked out for you. I had thought washers were a good option too but lucked on the plastic fitting. I had air lock and mine overheated first time when it was reasembled. I took the top hose of motor and purged with water flowing through the radiator to clear any air and refitted the hose and it was all good.

thanks for the update, happy travels
Mal
 
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