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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered a Winch and winch mount, went with the viper elite and the KFI Mount.

I was wondering how everyone wired it up, would it be better to run the wires all the way back or could i just look to the box in front? Also, How does one go about mounting the winch control box.?
 

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Wire it to the terminal block under the front storage compartment. There are threads with pictures discussing this.
I stuffed my contactor block in that area too, zip tied it in place.
 

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Agree with scoundrel. Make sure you have some sort of failsafe. I suggest a battery cutoff in addition to wiring it to keyed power.
 

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Agree with scoundrel. Make sure you have some sort of failsafe. I suggest a battery cutoff in addition to wiring it to keyed power.
Why Mungo......you have 6 gauge wiring from the battery all the way to the power block and onto the solenoid then more 6 gauge to the winch, have a tiny battery that doesn't have enough amps to even warm those big wires, and a small stator that isn't good for much at all. I've run 250 amps through my boats trolling motor system 6 gauge wiring for hours on end and never popped a breaker.....so I really don't see this underpowered winch circuit popping one either. I have never had a failsafe system on any winch circuit, and never had one problem without one. I know what youre going to say....well that's a boat....yep a 3500 pound one that is very hard on trolling motors, and sees use hours on end when fishing a tournament. That heavy wiring is my failsafe....Your thoughts please
 

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I haven't heard of someone putting in a failsafe for a winch system before, unless you're talking about a standard in-line fuse on the low power 12v line that goes to the switch.
 

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By failsafe I meant...

1. Fuse in line to battery.
2. Master cut off switch.
3. Wire to keyed power.
4. Any combination together.

The idea is to cut power in the event of a winch failure or control failure.

Not too worried about a battery experiencing thermal runnaway during discharge, but with upgraded batteries you can ruin them along with the winch.
 

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Mungo...I think you are being over-cautious about the failsafe. I don't remember any of the winch distributors/manufacturers ever saying anything about one at all. If one was really needed , I feel they would supply one with the wiring pack. Some may need a cut off as a peace of mind insurance policy, but not needed. Mine is already on a keyed control wire to the controller, so if there is a run away winch problem, simply turn your key off. If you have a master cut off it won't hurt anything, just not needed. just my $.02 worth
 

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Both of my 3500 pound winches came with I think they are 50 amp line fuses in the main positive feed line between the contactor and battery terminal.
Obviously the manufacturer of the winch thinks it's a good idea.
 

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I can see a high amp fuse or fuse link in there. I guess I did'nt make myself clear. I was thinking more about a high amp master cut-off switch being installed. All electrical devices should have an appropriate sized fuse in the circuit.
 

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Mungo...I think you are being over-cautious about the failsafe. I don't remember any of the winch distributors/manufacturers ever saying anything about one at all. If one was really needed , I feel they would supply one with the wiring pack. Some may need a cut off as a peace of mind insurance policy, but not needed. Mine is already on a keyed control wire to the controller, so if there is a run away winch problem, simply turn your key off. If you have a master cut off it won't hurt anything, just not needed. just my $.02 worth
Yeah, I have mine like yours. Wired to key power so I can easily shut it down, with a 50amp fuse (came in kit), and I wanted to add a master cutoff (for other electrical reasons) this is really a last resort, makes stealing harder,
Etc.
 

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Both of my 3500 pound winches came with I think they are 50 amp line fuses in the main positive feed line between the contactor and battery terminal.
Obviously the manufacturer of the winch thinks it's a good idea.
Mustang, my 3500# winch came with no fuses. You said yours came with 50amp fuse. The battery in our machine only produces 14amp hour, so that 50 amp fuse is a waste because you could never pop it with a battery that only produces 14 amp hours. With a battery that is that low of amperage, there is no possible need of any fuses...fail safes or special switches in the winch circuit The heavy wire alone will handle the power the ACE produces all by itself....not to mention the wiring circuit the winch uses is already fused in the box. Now I know why the largest fuse in the box is I believe a 20 AMP.......oops the ECU has a 30 and the eps is a 30 if equipped, but still far from a 50
 

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Mustang, my 3500# winch came with no fuses. You said yours came with 50amp fuse. The battery in our machine only produces 14amp hour, so that 50 amp fuse is a waste because you could never pop it with a battery that only produces 14 amp hours. With a battery that is that low of amperage, there is no possible need of any fuses...fail safes or special switches in the winch circuit The heavy wire alone will handle the power the ACE produces all by itself....not to mention the wiring circuit the winch uses is already fused in the box. Now I know why the largest fuse in the box is I believe a 20 AMP
your viper draws 268 amps at full load , look it up .....................

14ah and amps are 2 different things

I'll be sure and tell Superwinch they have no friggin idea what they are doing :joyous:
 

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I don't have a Viper, but anyway.....nothing can draw 268 amps if the battery and charging system cant supply that amperage, and the Ace cant with the tiny battery and stator it has

Quote, 14ah and amps are 2 different things Tell us what two things they are?
 

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14 amp hours means in a perfect world the battery would supply 14 amps for 1 hour before drained dead. The battery has a max current capacity that is more than 14 amps.
the battery CAN supply more amps on a shorter term.
 

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I know it is hyperconservative, but I tend to think of precautions as addressing a concern.

Wiring to key power can save the winch, or limb (I know, safety first).
Wiring in a fuse can save the winch, or battery.
Wiring in a cutoff can save winch, battery or prevent a fire. Also makes it harder to hotwire, and safer to charge with external charger.

Vandal although unlikely, I can think of a scenario where a catastrophic result could happen.

Upgraded AGM battery, faulty winch, during charging, someone tests the battery by cranking the motor...... could lead to hot spot on the battery, or thermal runnaway.

While the battery has a max output, introducing the external charger, or alternator into the system could overload the electrical system.

Who among us removes the battery when charging with an external charger? I dont, but probably should.

A collision or external force could also cause arching of the power line.


My 3500lb winch included the 50 fuse (who knows maybe large RZR needs larger.)
 

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Here is another suggestion. Consider a scenario where you must quickly disable accessories because of an electrical failure in the field. Something that will enable you to quickly revert back to a basic cofig and save you a nice walk back to civilization.

I am thinking through this, but realistically the winch is my biggest potential point of failure.
 

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Bottom line is wire it how ever make you comfortable. Since I finally got a winch for the Ace I will use the front connecting points and every power wire I run for anything will have some sort of overload protection. My winch came with a self-resetting circuit breaker, I find those to be just fine for the main power wire. I am adding a couple LED lights at the same time and will make sure there is some sort of fuse in that circuit as well, either one in the factory wiring or one I add if not able to use a factory location.
With the tendency of many ATV uses to submerge their vehicles it makes sense to have every circuit protected in some fashion.
Mungo mentions a master disconnect switch, I'm not sure I will add anything like that to the Ace but it is a required item on any pro racing vehicle. They won't even let me on the the track if I don't have one installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys for all the "Input" I am hoping to get to this next weekend (House Shopping this weekend). I am still debating if I want to run the leads to the battery or just use the front connecting points. The winch came with very long leads and I don't really want to cut them and re solder/crimp the ends on it.

Thanks
 

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the keyed switch power tap under the hood is fused from the factory , but that only protects the low amp wiring from the winch switch to the contactor .
contactors are nothing but a switch , they can and do FAIL . thats when the meltdown happens if you dont have the high amp lines from the battery fused .Or if one of your winch leads rubs on the frame and the wires chafe , when you push the winch button sparks are gonna fly ,just like laying a wrench across the positive and negative battery terminals . the line fuse prevents the meltdown.

50 amp breaker or fuse is the standard for most atv winches.
In my past life I used to be a CNC machine tool electronics technician , I sorta know about elektrickery :wink:
 
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